Backyard Shed
(Page 6 of 12)
August/September 1993
By John Vivian
Lay outer sill boards flat atop foundation piers. Center inner boards flat atop them. Fasten inner to outer sill boards using two 8d galvanized common nails, one above the other, between joist hangers. Now, fit sill together squarely atop foundation; fasten ends with 12d nails.
RELATED CONTENT
The Healthy Building Network’s Pharos Project aims to tap the collective knowledge of green buildin...
If you've ever had a good little shed, you know their usefulness ranks right up there with rakes, c...
Author constructs storage space for a little more than $1 per square foot, including planning, thou...
Put up a pole building (or pole barn) for a fast, solid and cost-effective workshop, storage space ...
If you have a 12-horsepower or smaller lawn tractor, nail on wood or metal X-braces every 2' between 2 x 6s under its parking spot. If tractor is larger, add 2 x 6s so they are spaced every 12 inches.
Anchors
Put two spikes through holes at bottom of prepunched angle-steel anchors. Poke down into corner blocks and fasten anchors to inside corner of sill with 8d nails. Mix a half bucket of leftover concrete or mortar per corner, and fill block cell containing foot of anchor with clean rock or rubble wedged in and spot-cemented. With a hacksaw, trim anchors so they're even with top of sill. Tap joists into hangers (ends butted tight to side of sill) till upper edge is even with top of sill. Fasten hanger to joists with 8d nails through holes in hanger brackets. (But, for now, leave joist hangers tacked only to sills.)
Use your try square to transfer "on-center" marks inside the sills to out-facing faces of front and back sills to use later in locating studs. Lay 2 1/2" plywood or 5/8" particleboard sheets with seam in the middle of the frame, front edges even with front sill, rear edges jutting beyond sill. Place the two remaining sheets. These should join to the middle sheets over midpoint of underlying joists (sides will jut beyond sill). Adjust joists and hangers if necessary so all seams are centered over a joist. Then lift flooring, one edge of one sheet at a time, and sink tacked on joist-hanger nails in sill. Don't forget this step, just flooring-over loose joist hangers.
Apply chalk to a 20' length of cord. Tighten and snap cord to make chalk lines where floor extends beyond sills. Trim flush to sills, using the circular saw and a fine-toothed plywood blade. Align chalk line with centers marked on outer front/back sills, tighten and snap cord to mark nail lines down middle of flooring.
Set 8d nails every 4" around the perimeter of flooring; alternate them 3/4" and 2 1/2" from the edge. Set nails 5/8" from edge of ply, staggering them from side to side every 3" down joints between sheets. Angle nails slightly in toward underlying joist. Set nails every 6" along chalk lines over joists. Now, your floor is on and anchored. Your back is no doubt aching from stoop labor—take a break.
Wall and Roof Frame
You can assemble front and back walls flat on the floor, using floor nail lines and mid-joist marks made on sill fronts as a stud-layout guide. (Snap chalk lines between marks to make it even easier.)
For sleeper (sole plate) at bottom and plate at top, trim two sets of flat, end-joined 2 x 4s to fit front and back perimeter of floor, and connect them with truss plates—just as you made the outer sills.
Page:
<< Previous 1 |
2 |
3 |
4 |
5 | 6 |
7 |
8 |
9 |
10 |
11 |
12 |
Next >>
