The Gate That Keeps On Swinging
(Page 2 of 4)
June/July 1993
By John Vivian
Selecting Hinges
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If using butt hinges for a gate that opens in, attach them to the stile and post, using a chisel to cut insets. Locate hinges with the hinge pin on the inside face of the stile and the cylinder formed where hinge plates bend around the pin that juts beyond stile and post.
(This way, the gate will open fully so it's flat against the fence.) If the gate is to open out, locate the hinges on the stile and post so that pins face out on the outer edge and adjust the infill so it doesn't interfere with the gate opening to a good 90° angle from the fence.
If using eye and pintle hinges, drill X" pilot holes through the stile and into the post at the center of (and perpendicular to) the stile, and 4" from the top and bottom of it. Screw in the eyes through the hole. For butterfly-type hinges that will be screwed to the outer infill boards, draw the outline of the stile on the post and tack the stile board into the outline. For final installation, insert longer screws than those that come with most where the hinges are located over frame members (so the screws will penetrate into the frame).
Where hinges are located over thin infill, replace screws with through-bolts; fasten with selfsnugging bolts over large flat washers. Now, decide on the joint you want to make between stile and rail. A simple butt joint is easiest, but weakest. Cutting meeting ends of boards at a 45° angle is better. Cutting notches out of each board is better yet. Use a power circular saw or hand saw (a thin but solidly reinforced sharp back saw is best) to cut Y" square notches out of the outside of the top end and the inside of the bottom of each stile, and the reverse in rails. Mark and cut carefully so the sides of the notches are perfectly square. With pilot-drilled, 4"-long drywall screws through the shingles, fasten the latch stile to the latch post so top and bottom are even with the fence rails.
Run screws back out so the stile is held !" from the post; wedge tight with shingles. At top, bottom, and middle of the stile, insert 3" shingle splits from each side, between stile and post; push together so that the stile is immobilized and wedged tight parallel to the hinge post. Attach the stile to the post with hinges. Tap rail boards between posts and align with the stiles. Mark ends with 45° or notch lines; remove and trim ends and joints. Replace trimmed rails and fasten to stiles. The top joints can be fastened with two long drywall screws.
The bottom will be inaccessible, so support the bottom rail tight against the stiles with bricks or wood blocks and shingles; pilot drill and insert screws from side of stiles down into rails. Trim a length of rail stock for the angled brace so that you can hold it diagonally against the side of the gate frame. Mark the outline of the joint; remove the brace, and mark margins of the cut all around the ends. With saw, plane, or rasp, trim the ends of the brace so it fits snugly; you needn't fasten them because the brace will be held in place by corner braces or infill.
Cut and use drywall screws to install infill on the gate (it will provide bracing for joints as well as attach the diagonal brace). Be sure the end infill boards are fastened securely to stile and rail at joints. Measure carefully and insert a pair of screws into the angled brace through each infill board.
