A STURDY WOODBOX FOR SERIOUS WOODBURNERS

Article Tools

Image Gallery

Print

E-mail

Comments

RSS

Assemble Panels

Begin by assembling the two 3'-long side panels and two 2'-long end panels. For each, lay two unframed siding boards between a pair of already-framed siding boards oriented so that there is a frame board at the top and bottom of the four-board panel. Use your framing square to arrange the boards into a perfect rectangle. Then measure, cut, and tack-glue a pair of vertical frame members between and perpendicular to the horizontal frame pieces already attached to the top and bottom boards—one at the center and one at the right edge of each panel. Be sure the outer edge of the frame board placed at the right margin of the panel is even with the inner edge of the 45° saw-cuts in the boards. Pilot-drill and screw-fasten frame to siding as before.

Now you have four panels fastened with interior framing—horizontals at top and bottom; vertical frame boards at center and the right edge. Set the four panels on edge and arrange them in their finished rectangular configuration. Tape together for now. Next, make a bottom. If you have a piece of plywood, measure (tracing a paper pattern is the surest way), cut, and set it in atop the bottom frame members. Otherwise, measure, and cut extra siding or any scrap, inch-thick lumber you may have. Set it in to hold the box square, but don't fasten yet. Square corners around the bottom and tape or hot-glue-tack corners one at a time in a perfect 90° with a tight knife-edge at all four corners.

Assemble the four sides into a box and fasten adjoining frame members together from the inside with drywall screws. (Remove frame boards and refasten if corners don't make a sharp, closed edge.) Final-fasten panels by pilot-drilling and inserting screws through unframed ends of siding boards and into frame members behind them—already fastened to the ends of the adjoining panel. For a more finished appearance, use a #6 counter-sink to remove a ¼" deep plug of wood in alternating corners where screws go in through the outside. Drill fake screw holes in the outside edges of corners already fastened to frame boards from the inside. From a separate piece of wood (in a contrasting shade if available), cut plugs with a #6 plug-cutter, cover with woodworkers' glue, and insert on top of the countersunk screw heads. After the glue dries, use a chisel to shear plugs off at board-surface level.

Finally, spread woodworkers' glue around the tops of the bottom frame boards, set bottom board(s) in atop them, and pilot drill and fasten with drywall screws, every four inches or so.

Trim

This box sits—or as the style-minded might opine, squats —flat on the floor. For a less stolid appearance, give it a lift with a set of beam legs that is a little shorter than the box is wide to give a nice shadow line. Cut two lengths of 2 x 2 or scrap 1½"-square framing an inch shorter than the box is wide. Turn the box over and tack them to the bottom frames across the narrow dimension of the box and about 6" in from each end. Fill the space between the beams and the flooring above with scrap wood spacers. Screw leg beams to the spacer above them with three evenly-spaced drywall screws. Turn the box over again and fasten the flooring to the spacer below. Pilot-drill the holes in the thin leg-wood.

RSS | Comments | E-mail | Print