Driving to Perfection
(Page 7 of 10)
Installation Procedures
RELATED CONTENT
Organic Valley is now producing pasture butter, a decadent cultured butter from grass-fed cattle. W...
How to build a mortarless stone wall including choosing stones, equipment, layout, ends and corners...
Paring Knife Perfection April/May 2002
COUNTRY LORE
Hands down...
Meet a contemporary quilt maker who uses a unique paper-folding technique in her quilting....
For installing a new drive on an average-draining soil,
remove sod or forest loam, as well as the upper three to
six inches of rich top soil (used for landscaping by
commercial road-builders; you might save yours for a
raised-bed garden). Grade and compact subsoil. Then lay on
base material as needed: the best material being 1 to
1/2"-size rock or gravel in a layer three to 12 inches
thick, as subsoil drainage requires. Estimate that a cubic
yard will cover approximately 100 square feet, three inches
deep. A dump truck will back in, then drive ahead, raising
its bed as it goes to distribute each layer. Layers must
then be spread evenly, graded level, and compacted before
another layer is applied. Patience is a key ingredient at
this point. You can spread and grade a short drive in
sections (by eye) with a rake and a pair of lines stretched
on stakes — a level line stretched across the road
and a grade line stretched up and down its length. Compact
with repeated passes over the entire surface, (not just
over a pair of tire tracks) with a well-loaded pickup
truck.
As the base is laid and compacted, it should be domed
— graded at a slight angle to each side of the
midline — to drain well. Then an inch or more layer
of topping is laid. Small-size crushed rock is arguably the
best. It will not shift or roll as will gravel, it compacts
well to shed water and does not grind to dust. Small
cinders, crushed coral, "coquina" limestone and sea shell
drive toppings are locally available. Fine (under-one-inch)
gravel is good once it is ground well into the under layer.
Deposits of clayey small-gravel or weathered shale are
available in some areas, known by such names as "greystone"
or "redstone" Adhesive and nearly waterproof if put down in
thin layers, each are compacted well, and since they are
used as they come out of the pit, they are relatively
cheap.
We solved our drive problem by having enough local
rotten-shale "mudstone" hauled in to fill the dips, broaden
the drive a foot, and widen the entry by half again. Just
don't top your drive with six inches of pea gravel that I
used once in my very early days as a country householder. A
thin scattering looks good on a bare dirt drive, but a
thick layer just rolls over itself and causes endless
traction problems. After the truck swam through the stuff
for a month like a lost ship on the sea, I swallowed my
pride and had it scraped off and hauled away.
Page:
<< Previous 1 |
2 |
3 |
4 |
5 |
6 | 7 |
8 |
9 |
10 |
Next >>