Driving to Perfection
(Page 5 of 10)
The safest approach angle from road to drive is a flat
90°. The opening into the road should flare gradually
and evenly on each side so that it will at least double the
drive's width. This will allow for easy turns in and out.
Stake out both sides of your entry in fair curves by
setting out stakes every five feet. Then run a stake line
up the center of the drive — stakes every 20 feet on
the flat, every six feet around curves, and at the top of
all nobs and knolls.
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The rules are simple. Try to maintain a constant fall
— as uniform a grade as possible — of between
two and five percent. To maintain grade on a steep slope,
run the drive back and forth along the face of the slope,
doing your best to locate curves where the hill levels out.
If you must contend with a steep rise, try to have the
sharpest portion of the grade at the top of the drive (so
you can make a running start to crest it in slippery
weather).
To gauge grade, have a helper run the line out 50 (or 100)
feet and place it on the ground. Attach the line level,
pull the line tight, and level at your marked stake. If the
line hits the one-foot (2') mark you have a two-percent
grade; at the 2 1/2 ft (5') mark you have a five-percent
grade.
Use the 24- and 48-foot marks on the line to lay out
curves. Describe both size circles on flat land to get an
idea of the extremes, and estimate them out on the land,
checking later with the line (placed at the imaginary
center of the circle described by your curve). Make the
curves as fair — as near to the arc of a perfect
circle — as you can.
As you encounter low nobs and shallow dips, run the line
along the top of the rises. The road will be evened out as
nobs are cut and dips are filled with the spoil. If a
driveable grade or a fair curve requires cutting out the
side of a large soil bank, the spoil can be used to fill
dips or extend the roadway off to the side. The bare soil
walls can be planted with trees and grass or buttressed
with a terrace or retaining wall. (See illustration "Cuts
and Fills" ) Terraces and retaining walls can be built out
of timbers, rock, or of precast, interlocking concrete
posts. But every cubic yard of spoil taken out must have
somewhere to go, and its removal takes time and money.
Every layer of fill needs compacting — but may still
settle and need to be topped up. Avoid as much subsoil
removal as you can, even if it means a longer drive.
Paving a Clear Way
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