All Decked Out For Summer
(Page 9 of 10)
June/July 1992
by John Vivian
Lagscrew stringer tops to foundation posts or fasten to a beam with large metal angle-fittings. Through-bolt the bottom stair post to the bottom of the stringer, then screw bottom of both stringer and rail post to metal fittings set a 1/2" above a poured concrete or filled-block ground pad.
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Angle-cut and screw the stair's cap and bottom rails to the deck-railing posts and fill with angle-cut balusters to match the railing. Stair treads receive the most wear of any part of a deck. For best drainage and easiest replacement, make treads of spaced 5/4 x 4 decking fastened to stringers through pilot holes with 3" self-tapping deck screws.
If your deck is well above grade, you may want to conceal the bare ground beneath with a spaced-wood apron. Affix a 2x4 rail on edge around the bottom of foundation posts and even with the beam above. Then, between beam and rail, attach wood strips to match the deck and house trim—horizontal or vertical, diagonal or latticed. Inch-thick PT boards are best, but cheapest is 1/8 x 1 1/2x 4 wood lath or 1x3x8 furring strips: wood that is a little rough, but serviceable if culled and sealed at ends and sides before fastening. To use the space for storage, eliminate a length of bottom rail. Build apron panels to fit between posts on a rectangular frame of 2x4s screwed together both sides with triangular plywood gussets or galvanized metal "L" fittings. Hang them at top with galvanized "T" hinges.
Finish & Maintenance
Decks do best with a minimum of finish. If you must, prime and paint railings to match the house, but never paint deck floorplanking. PT and naturally rot-resistant woods can be left to weather, but benefit by being treated with a clear sealer. Conventional lumber must be treated periodically with a sealer/stain to retain an even color. Don't rely on can labels; consult a knowledgeable local paint retailer for the best finish for your choice of lumber in your climate.
Finally, assure the longevity of your deck by cleaning it spring and fall and treating annually against mildew. (Use a scrub brush and detergent or oxaylic-acid wood bleach to scour the door). With a putty knife and hose on high pressure, dig rot-encouraging debris from cracks between planks—especially over joists. Let dry, then apply a colorless deck preservative, soaking planks and railings and brushing well into vertical surfaces. Get under the deck and slosh preservative up into fittings and joints. If you notice rust on fittings or fasteners, wirebrush down to shiny metal and coat with metal primer and aluminum rust-proofing spray-paint. If floor boards begin to splinter or rot, replace the entire board or cut out the affected length between joists, double the joist under joints and fasten a length of new wood. In termite country, check older decks for mud tunnels leading from soil over concrete footings to the wood. If you find them, call the exterminator.
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