The Occidental Gazebo

Article Tools

Image Gallery

Print

E-mail

Comments

RSS

I am not making this up; this is correct procedure for all arcane polygons with eight sides. It makes you want to sit down and have a beer or two. Instead, use your framing square to step off the rafters "X" times (X equaling the number of feet in the run), and cut them with a power saw. Finish the bird's-mouth cut (where the rafter rests on the cap plate) with a handsaw. Remember to add on an overhang, 16" here, and to subtract half the thickness of your ridge boardin this case, the 6 x 6 hub.

Nail two opposing rafters to the center hub, to form a simple truss. Using two or more friends, lift the truss to the top of the gazebo and hoist it into vertical position with ropes, grunts and sweat; stand on the walkway, while one pair holds the truss in place and friend #3 keeps it plumb by watching the bubble of a level, and leisurely toenail the rafter ends to the cap plates.

By now, your spouse will have gone to suddenly remembered appointments. So have friend #3 jump down to hand you up the remaining rafters, one at a time as you need them. As soon as he gives you the third rafter, change your mind and have him climb back up to hold the truss exactly plumb while you nail the third rafter at apex and bird'smouth, to form a tripod. Until this is done, a light zephyr could de-plumb it, ruining your day and many to come. The rope-holding friends below may now watch you work, while they relax.

Not you or friend #3. You both have to reposition the plank after installing each opposing pair of rafters.

Nail the fascia board (1 x 10cedar is excellent) onto the exposed rafter ends. At this point, the hard work is mostly done. But the scary work lies ahead, for you will have to climb on the roof soon, and a prayer or two might be in order. Next, measure and cut 3/4" fir T & G (tongue-and-groove) sheathing and nail it to the rafters (simple words, but six hours); staple on the felt; and roof it with asphalt shingles using short roofing nails no longer than 1/2". The underside is completely visible, remember? You don't want them poking through.

Install the copper flashing (special-ordered from a sheet-metal shop) over the topmost point, using butyl rubber or asphalt caulk in your caulking gun, and affix the finial ball by driving galvanized finish nails through the pedestal into the hub stub. Finis. Time for a tall cool one. It doesn't get any harder than this, from this point forward. Really.

With gazebos, the finish work is more critical to appearance than to structural soundness. Still, you shouldn't put off doing the stairway and rail, mounting wooden, righ-tangle rafter brackets where posts and cap plates meet and between posts and overhangs. Later, you can install optional bench seats and lattice to enclose it on five sides. You'll want to paint or stain all bare wood to protect against the elements, of course. Very wise of you.

RSS | Comments | E-mail | Print