Drywall

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Popped drywall nails can be driven back into place and reset just below the surface of the wallboard. To keep the board from springing again, drive a new nail a couple of inches above or below the loose one. Fill both dimpled nailhead areas with joint compound, then sand and prime them once the material's dry.

Large cracks and holes up to 2" in size need tape to support the patch. Especially deep or wide cracks may have to be filled with setting plaster after cleaning them-Durabond 90 is one well-known brand. Since plaster doesn't sand well, use it only below the drywall's surface; once it's hardened you can cover it with joint compound.

Spread a generous dollop of compound to the center, and beyond the edges, of the opening. Tear off a strip of joint tape, and

cover the filled area, smoothing the paper into the soft compound with your knife. Holes may need two or three crisscrossed layers of tape, but be sure to coat each layer with compound before you put the next one on top.

Finally, use the joint knife to cover the tape with a thin compound coat. Let it dry, and apply a second coat with the 10" taping knife, carrying the filler beyond the original patch by several inches on each side, so it's thinnest at the edges. Allow it to dry completely before sanding and priming the area.

Large holes, and the all-too-common water-damaged areas, need to be cut out of the wall and replaced altogether. (Keep in mind, though, that it's sometimes easier to replace an entire panel rather than spending time on spot repairs.)

Begin by slicing out the damaged section, using the utility knife for vertical cuts and a keyhole saw for those between joists or studs. Smaller holes that don't fully span the space between studs can be enlarged to a straight-sided shape with the saw. Remove any old drywall nails left in the framing if the studs are exposed.

Next, measure and cut the new section to fit the opening, and nail its edges to the studs. If the hole's not that large, simply glue a strip of wood to the back side of the wall panel, holding the wood temporarily by wiring it to a second strip set across the face. Once the adhesive's dry, the inside piece will serve as a backing, and you can hold the new section in place with another bead of glue (Fig. 3).

Fill the space around the perimeter with joint compound, and bed in a layer of tape if the gap is more than 1/8" or so. Cover the patch with a first and second coat, sand it, and prime it as before.

Loose joint tape or torn face paper is a common occurrence. If it's just peeled paper, remove the piece and cover the spot with a skim coat of joint compound. A second coat, feathered toward the outside, can be sanded smooth and primed.

Tape that's lifted should be carefully removed from the surface so as not to pull off adjacent compound or the gypsum below it. Sand the area down, and fill any cracks that may have formed. Then lay in a new strip of tape, and apply the first compound coat. A second layer will probably have to be feathered over that before the patch can be sanded and primed.

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