Drywall

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Deciding on the panels' overall dimensions may be more difficult, since drywall can be installed either horizontally or vertically. It's generally accepted that fewer end (untapered) joints make a cleaner surface, so wallboard set across the studs in full 12' lengths should be the best choice (Fig. 2).

This doesn't, however, take into account the room size, any poorly placed junctures, or the sheer logistics of moving 90-pound sheets of material from here to there. You may find that the smaller-sized sheets fit your situation better. Don't, however, get caught up in trying to piece the room sheathing together like a jigsaw puzzle around small openings-they can be cut out later.

In fact, the best-looking jobs are usually those in which every opening-doors and windows included-is trimmed after the drywall is up. So when calculating how many panels you'll need overall, you can make it easy on yourself and simply multiply each surface's length and width, add them together to get total square footage, and locate the number in the body of the accompanying coverage chart that's just higher than your figure to determine what quantity is needed of whatever size panel you wish to work with.

Now's the time, too, to estimate your other needs. The number of fasteners and the amount of joint tape and compound you'll be using can be only an approximation, but you can refer to the accessories chart and come pretty close. If you're the type to wear a belt and suspenders, you may want to use wallboard adhesive in conjunction with nails, and reduce the nail count by half. Understand, too, that lightweight joint compound generally fills better and so will go further than the same amount of standard ready-mix.

Trial Runs

Well, it looks like you're ready to begin. But maybe you're not so sure-in fact, maybe it would be better if you could just practice a bit to get the feel of the tools and materials.

Fine. There must be a wall or two in your house that needs minor work. Gouges, dents, and small holes and cracks can be treated alike. Give them a rough sandpaper scuffing, then spread a layer of joint compound (you can use vinyl filler for small jobs) into the depression with the small joint knife. If two coats are needed, let the first dry before laying the second. Filling will go more smoothly if you load the knife with compound on one side, then draw the blade slowly and evenly across the damaged area, holding it at a 45° angle and applying medium pressure.

After the filler is dry, go over the area with a sandpaper block to feather, or blend, the edge to match the surrounding drywall. Wipe the surface clean, then seal the spot with a latex primer. This last step is important to a successful repair, because the patch is more porous than the area around it and would probably show with a flatter sheen if it were simply repainted.

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