Drywall

Article Tools

Image Gallery

Print

E-mail

Comments

RSS

Finally, for customers who want walls with a paneled look, most drywall manufacturers make bevel-edged sheets that create a clean, visible groove at each panel joint.

Tools and Supplies

Drywall work doesn't require a huge investment in equipment. You may already own many of the necessary tools, and the rest are by no means expensive.

It's essential, of course, that you have a sharp utility knife, preferably one in which the blade retracts into the handle. Several joint knives, or trowels, are needed as well: a flexible 4" or 6" blade, a larger 10" taping knife, and perhaps a corner trowel for clean inside angles. Professionals also use a 12" curved-blade trowel for finishing work; it probably wouldn't be worth buying, but if you can borrow one and get the hang of feathering an edge with its stiff metal blade, you'll be able to achieve pretty good results.

A 4' aluminum T-square guarantees straight, accurate cuts. A rasp or a Stanley Surform tool will shave down an edge quickly, and a keyhole or compass saw is best for cutting outlet holes. You'll also want a tape measure and an 8' stepladder.

Filling and taping require a 12" mud pan to hold joint compound, a supply of 120-grit sandpaper, a sanding block, a dust mask, and rolls of wallboard joint tape. Paper tape is fine for walls and inside corners; for ceiling joints you may want to use self-adhesive fiberglass tape to save the trouble of the initial "bedding," which we'll get to later.

Drywall is especially vulnerable to tears and gouges, so outside corners are always protected with corner bead, a metal reinforcement strip that's nailed in place and covered with compound. Likewise, at places where panels meet window- or doorjambs and other dissimilar materials, metal trim can be used to provide a neat finished edge. You'll probably need to use a pair of tin snips to cut through these pieces.

Fastening the panels to the room's framing studs can be accomplished either with drywall nails or bugle-head screws. Nails are OK for the walls: All you'll need is a supply of 15/a" ring-shanked nails and a drywall hammer. If you try to do the job with a claw hammer, you may be disappointed. The drywall tool has an angled head to allow nailing close to ceilings and corners. Its checkpatterned face prevents slippage, and it indents the panel so the nail holes can be filled properly. Furthermore, its hatchet end can trim framing, shape edges, and lever panels into tight spots if you know how to use it.

Screw fasteners are the best choice, especially for overhead work. For wood framing, 1'/a" Type W screws work best. They're placed using an electric driver equipped with a magnetized Phillips head and a depth stop. (This specialized tool can be rented, so don't worry about buying one.)

Joint compound, or filler, is critical to the success of your project. Professional wallers have a dozen choices, based on use, formulation, and drying time. Everyone else should probably stick with ready-mixed vinylbased compounds. Two kinds are usually sold: general-purpose mix for bedding, finishing, and surface texturing; and lightweight compound, an improved blend that is easier to work and sand. Both should be protected from freezing before they've dried.

RSS | Comments | E-mail | Print