Fold-Over Library Chair

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Don't glue any parts together until you've cut the notches (18 altogether) into their respective pieces as shown in the illustration.

If you have a table saw, this job will be easy; if not, use the jigsaw or a backsaw to make the two shoulder cuts, and a sharp chisel to finish each back cut.

Assemble the project in three stages: 1) the chair base, including the bottom tread, 2) the back, seat frame and top tread and 3) the seat, break shelf and back slats.

The chair converts to a stool by unhooking a latch and folding the back forward.

Both treads are made so the framework is built around them; you may want to use a couple of clamps to hold the diagonals against the leg facers while you position the tread boards and the support. Once they're in place, bore all the dowel sockets accurately by bar-clamping the opposite braces and facers to keep them from moving while you sink the holes to a depth of 1 3/8. Notice that at the leading edge of each tread corner, where the diagonals pass through the tread notches, a 1/4" X 2 1/2" steel rod is used instead of a wooden dowel. Drill those four sockets to the extra depth required.

With all the framing parts prepared, you can glue the joints and sink the dowels into their glued sockets. Reclamp the frames, and let the adhesive set completely. Afterward, take the sander and finish rounding the square edges and flattening the spots meant to be flush, including the dowel tips.

At this point, the seat boards and back slats can be sanded and fitted. First, cut a 1/8" X 16" notch into the square edge of the break shelf to provide a mortise for the folded hinge. Then, align the flat corners at the rear of the shelf with the squared backs of the front legs. Use four dowels to fasten the shelf to the top of the base.

Next, attach the large seat board to its frame using the eight dowels remaining. Complete the back by gluing the three slats into their notches. Finally, place the seat frame upside down on the base, and fasten the hinge with No. 4 X 1 1/2" flathead screws so that the pin is centered. To help guide the seat straight onto the base when folding the chair, you may want to use the sander to slightly bevel the inside corners of the rear legs.

If you've chosen a select grade of wood and filled the gaps with care, the chair will take a stain and a clear finish nicely. Wood with more than a few surface blemishes, however, may look better sealed first with a primer, then painted with a semigloss finish.

Once the final coat is dry, you can fasten the flat catch to the outside face of one set of diagonals to keep the chair from unfolding when it's lifted. Use the upended rear legs as a handhold if you need to, but—for safety's sake—never stand on the top tread. The area just behind the hinge is the best place to put your weight when using the chair as a stool.

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