A Deck for the Decades

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2. Posts can be fastened to doubled beams using a tongue-and-socket technique. The tongue is cut into the top of the post, leaving 1 1/2" shoulders at the sides for each plank of the beam to rest on. The planks are attached to both sides of the post with two 3/4" bolts, creating a "socket" in the finished beam.

3. A circular saw will be your best friend for this job, but a good handsaw will finish the deep cuts cleanly. Use a 2' framing square to mark your lines and a carpenter's level to check your work. Be prepared to buy a couple of long, spade-tipped drill bits and a 1/8" electric drill if you don't already have one.

4. Eye protection is a good idea when doing any carpentry. Cut pressure-treated wood outdoors, and wear a dust mask while doing it. Don't burn the scraps when you're through, and don't use them for food-gardening projects.

5. Unless a particular pattern is planned, longer decking boards make a smoother, more consistent surface because there are fewer joints. Never butt decking boards tightly together, and always place the wood's cupped side down. Bevel the tops of uncapped uprights to shed standing water. Use zinc-galvanized nails and fasteners.

6. To trim a row of deck boards cleanly, let them overhang a bit when putting them down, then snap a chalk line to mark the cut. Use a utility knife and a straightedge to score the surface, then saw just outside the groove to prevent splintering.

7. Use your framing square to mark the notches on your stair stringers. You can buy clamp-on gauges that'll let you position the square at the exact tread and riser dimensions. Once the first notch is marked, repeat the process along the length of the stringer, always matching the end of the next tread with the top of the previous riser.

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