A Deck for the Decades
(Page 4 of 7)
May/June 1989
By Richard Freudenberger
If, for example, your deck extends 16' from your back door, you'd want to use 1/8" galvanized bolts placed 20" apart, or use 1/4" bolts spaced 2' apart and a vertical row of three 12-penny nails every 6". A connection to brick is a bit different, since no nails are used. Here, 3/4" bolts are used every 16", attached through the veneer and the band joist behind it. One precaution: If the band joist is parallel to the other floor joists, it should be strengthened with solid blocking or cross bridging every couple of feet along its length, with the braces attached to the adjacent joists.
RELATED CONTENT
Building a deck that will withstand any climate or condition, including: posts, butt joints, dry ro...
BUILD A DECK... WITHGROCERY BAGS June/July 2000
Recycled plastic finds
n...
An in-depth look at types of hollies, when to plant and how to harvest....
Building a home deck, including site plan, trial layout, lumber, diagrams, instructions....
A freestanding deck eliminates all the trouble of bolting, flashing and water drainage, but it brings up new concerns. Diagonal 2 X 6 cross bracing might be needed for stability on decks standing taller than 4' or so. Knee braces--4 X 4s bolted diagonally across the corners where the posts meet the perimeter joists-are another option when the posts are large.
One meet-in-the-middle approach may be acceptable; that's to attach the deck, but to use nylon or plastic-pipe collars around the bolts as spacers to separate the ledger beam from the house. The connection is sound, and water can run off without puddling.
The rest of the deck framing will shed moisture easily if it's set up right. Some builders pitch the far end of the platform slightly--no more than 1/2" in 10'--for drainage, but this is really necessary only with porchtype tongue-and-groove decking. Normally, drainage is ensured with round-edged deck planks spaced 3/16" apart (about the width of a 16-penny nail) and held down with at least two nails per joist.
Too, all deck lumber should be either pressure treated or of a decay-resistant species such as redwood. Any wood in contact with the earth or concrete must be listed for belowground use. If you use untreated lumber, you can afford some protection to the joists and other problem areas with silicone caulk and simple cap flashing made from strips of thin-gauge galvanized sheet metal. This is especially true at the top of doubled beams, where water would otherwise gather in the seam.
Attention to Detail
At a certain point, you may face an option which could make your life easier. Where I live, any deck or platform less than 3' off the ground doesn't need a railing. Eliminating that part of the structure can free up funds for upgrading other parts of the deck and may even improve appearance in some cases.
Strategically placed backless benches can define the deck's edge, or--from the other view--benches and rails can be built as one. Generally, railings are set between 30" and 38 " high and are fastened to stanchions and balusters for support.
Page:
<< Previous 1 |
2 |
3 | 4 |
5 |
6 |
7 |
Next >>