THE HAPPY CLAM

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Then clamp a center bulkhead, top rail down, to that edge, and align the other three sections with the marks, employing pipe clamps at the corners where needed.
Next, by using a pair of compasses to scribe the correct bevel onto the ends of the transom uprights (or by simply marking a bevel angle of 105°), indicate the amount of wood strip you'll have to remove to allow the side panels to join flush with the ends of the transom, then unclamp the sides.

You can use a circular saw, a jigsaw or even a belt sander to trim the end bevels, as long as the finished surface is fairly uniform. Once the corners are taken care of, use the following procedure to level the bottom rails: First, lay heavy glue beads along the edges of the transom and bulkhead, and clamp the four sections together, squaring them by the marks on the plywood table. Drive a row of ¾” screws, 1½” apart, along the edges of each side, then drill a 3/32” pilot hole and sink a 3" main screw at each corner joint. Finally, hand-plane the rail faces, taking care to maintain a consistent angle as you work.

When the adhesive has cured, remove the clamps, and smooth the beveled edges with a sanding block. Apply a heavy bead of adhesive to the facing edge of the bottom rails, then position and fasten the bottom panel in place, checking for gaps as you work from the center to the ends and wiping away excess glue with a rag. After an appropriate curing time, use your jigsaw—set at the proper angle—to cut the skirt and rail tips from around the bottom panel.

Finally, cut a pair of strips 4' long, and center them lengthwise on the outside of the bottom panel, 18" apart. They act as stiffeners to flatten and support the plywood and keep the hull square. Glue them in place, then fasten one end of each piece from the outside. Draw the strips down, and screw in the other ends; the centers are secured from the inside with ¾” screws. Trim the ends afterwards, being careful not to split the wood.

If you've come this far, you've completed half of the basic boat. Start work on the other half, using the same plywood table and measuring techniques to assure that both hulls are symmetrical. While waiting for the glue to dry, you can fill your time finishing the details described next, which apply to both sections.

Gussets and Gunnels

Each corner is strengthened with the gussets cut earlier. They're positioned about 1 1 / 2 " below the upper rails on strips cut to fit the edges of each plate. Since the transoms and sides are fixed at an angle, the supports have to be beveled at the top; trial-fit the plates, and trace their position on the hull. You can then determine the necessary bevel by holding the strips to the line.

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