THE HAPPY CLAM

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After removing the six main parts from Sheet 3, use the detail provided to draw the outlines of the end and center gussets on the scraps left over from the second and third sheets. Trim out the eight gussets and set them aside for later.

The Jig Is Up

The next few steps will require that you 1) make a small bending jig out of 2 X 4s and 2) locate about 10 clamps to temporarily secure the gunnel and bottom rails to the side panels in preparation for fastening. The jig's a snap—simply trim the lumber to the dimensions shown in the illustration, cut out the reliefs in the long members as indicated, and screw the frame together. Pay par ticular attention to the placement of the center blocks, since they dictate the degree of hull bow.

Once the jig's completed, you're ready to set up each of the boat's side panels. Cut the upper and lower rails about 1' longer than necessary (that'll allow you a purchase when bending them into position), and trim some small pads out of scrap so the clamps don't damage the plywood. Lay a uniform bead of adhesive along the back of the strips, then clamp the square end of the panel and the rails to the jig.

Next, guide the panel down against the jig frame, and bow the rails to meet their targets at the opposite end. Put clamps at the center, the transom corners and the two areas between, but don't secure them until you've set the rails flush with the edges of the panel. That done, fasten them permanently with a line of screws.

All four panels are formed in the same fashion, but you'll have to let the adhesive on each one set before removing the clamps for the next. In the meantime, if you have some locking pliers, you can complete the framing on the two transoms and center bulkheads.

These components aren't bowed, so assembling them requires little more than cutting the strips to fit the panels (see diagrams), laying a solid adhesive bead behind each piece and locking the parts together before driving screws—about 2" apart—from the plywood side. Be aware that you'll have to plan for the 3" main screws that will penetrate each corner, so leave room in those areas by setting the end fasteners slightly lower than the others in the row.

Bottoms Up

After about two days of curing time, it's safe to release the assembled sections. In the next step, you'll be squaring up the sides of one half of the boat in preparation for fastening the corners. If you have a sheet of rigid plywood, set it on a pair of sawhorses, and measure off the location of the center line and the corners-to-be, using the straight end of the plywood table as a starting point.

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