Setting the Ceramic Tile

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Layout

On your first tile job, lay out the entire floor section before you even open the adhesive. Grab a fistful of tiles, and set them out across the narrow dimension of the floor in a single line, establishing an even grout line as you go. (If your tiles are on sheet grids, leave them on for the moment.) Chances are, you'll find that you end up with a partial tile at the far side. This is no cause for panic; it's what tile cutters are made for. Cut tiles can look quite acceptable. Besides, if you have baseboards or a cabinet with a toe overhang, just plan to put the cut edges of partial tiles underneath, where they won't show.

Next, try the same operation at the other end of the room, maintaining the same grout lines. Often as not, you'll find that the room width isn't exactly the same at both ends, which will require that you learn how to fudge creatively.

There are two cardinal rules to successful fudging: 1) If at all possible, don't compensate for an out-of-square room by cutting the tiles at the wall to varying widths; this makes the condition glaringly apparent, despite even grout lines. Try to compensate by varying the grout-line widths slightly. 2) When you vary grout-line widths, pay attention to common lines of sight. Maintain grout lines that are straight and parallel to walls or cabinets in the prevalent viewing direction. Usually, this means being consistent on the long dimension of the room, but there are exceptions. For instance, perhaps the most important view is the first one you get on entering the room. Stand in the doorway and imagine what you'll see. Do your serious fudging in dark corners; say, behind the commode.

The amount you can vary grout lines to compensate for out-of-square depends on the size, shape and color of the tile and the color of the grout (dark grouts against light tiles accent errors). Nonetheless, as a guideline for planning, figure about an inch increase or decrease for every 4' of run. (If you'll have to fudge beyond that, it's best to fur out the walls to correct the out-of-square condition.) And whatever amount you do add or subtract, bear in mind that the increase or decrease must be progressive and consistent from the narrowest point to the widest point or the tiles will appear to stairstep—a dead giveaway that something's amiss.

Cutting Tile

If you're lucky or creative enough to have a job that requires no tile cutting, congratulations. Skip to the next section. For the majority of jobs, though, you'll have to prepare at least a few customized tiles.

Tiles that have to be cut to other than a straight line must be nibbled. In addition, to prepare some trim tiles for installation in corners (cove bases, for example), you'll have to do your own mitering by hand. Nibblers resemble wire cutters with carbide jaws, but they're much more difficult to use. Rare is the tile setter who can cut a presentable line with nibblers. Fortunately, nibbled tile edges are usually hidden.

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