Setting the Ceramic Tile

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Most professional tile setters prefer thin-sets, not only because they're somewhat more economical than mastics but also because they're so much more versatile. You'll notice on the chart that mastic is limited to a few specific applications, while thinset can be used almost anywhere. If you're going to concentrate on one adhesive, thinset is certainly the one to choose.

That said, it's worth mentioning that many pros augment their thinsets with additives to improve their strength, flexibility and water resistance and to extend their setting time. Most use a latex or acrylic liquid to replace all or pan of the water in the thinset. Ask your tile dealer what is recommended. Some pros also use epoxy thinsets—which come with their own cement-sand mixture—for counter tops, but epoxy is more expensive than thinset and less forgiving during application.

Shopping

The prelude to success in setting ceramic tiles is careful planning. Prepare a drawing of the installation so you can make an exact count of both field and trim tiles. Then translate the count in field tiles to square footage, the unit by which you order them. As long as your dealer is cooperative about returns (most are), go ahead and order an extra 10% of the field tiles and one extra of each of the trim tiles. These will cover breakage and the occasional defect.

The dealer will be able to estimate the amount of adhesive and grout you'll need from the square footage of tile you order. Thinset comes in bags, like bagged concrete but in 10-, 25- and 50-pound weights. You may have some left over at the end, but it can be stored for about six months as long as it's kept dry. Mastics commonly come in five- and 25-pound buckets. Once opened, shelf life is six months to a year.

While you're buying tile, pick up a few basic tools. You'll need a notched trowel to apply adhesive in ridges that can be squished by the tile. The correct groove depth and configuration depends on the type of adhesive, the tile and the substrate. Ask your dealer which one's right for the job. You'll also need a grout float (or sponge trowel) to force grout between the tiles. There are two types, both of which are roughly 4" X 10" rectangular trowels with rubber faces. The type with sponge rubber is easier on tile glaze and should be used with unglazed or soft-glazed tile; the type with a smooth rubber face works better on glazed tiles. Tile dealers also sell special sponges for cleaning up grout. Their rounded shape works much better than the standard brick-shaped grocery store sponge. Get two.

To cut tiles, you'll need nibblers and a snap cutter. Nibblers, which are used to take small bites of tile when shaping curves around faucets and the like, should run around $10, so you might as well buy a pair. A snap cutter allows you to make straight cuts by scribing a line across the glaze with a carbide roller (like the one on a glass cutter) and then pushing simultaneously on each side of the scribed line. They cost more than $50 new but can be rented for $5 to $8 per day. Many tile dealers will loan a snap cutter as a courtesy to a customer who makes a substantial tile purchase.

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