Setting the Ceramic Tile

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Styles

Most of what you see hanging on the walls on palettes when you walk into your local tile store are field tiles —the building blocks of the trade. Among this sometimes dizzying array, you might find mosaics (decorative tiles 2" or smaller), standard wall and floor tiles (usually between 2" and 6" but sometimes up to 12"), pavers (thicker than ½”, usually larger than 6" and usually unglazed) or quarry tiles (large and unglazed in red, black or tan). Similar tiles will be available in a variety of colors, some with decoration.

Always carry a tape measure when you're shopping for tile. There is no standard system for measurement as is the case at the lumberyard. A tile called 4" may measure 3 7 / 8 ” (allowing for a 1 / 8 ” grout line), or it may be a full 4", or it might have been 4" before it was fired and is now something else. (In fact, if you're willing to fudge a bit in setting, you can often get great bargains b y asking for seconds that are off-size.)

As long as the tile grade is suitable to your application, color and configuration are largely matters of taste. As a general guideline, however, big tiles work best in large open areas without complex corners, while small tiles work best in smaller rooms and in areas with complicated corners. Geometric patterns including two or more sizes demand careful layout. You might consider putting off such a complex installation until you've gained a little experience.

Many field tiles 4" and less come in sheets with a web on the front or back that maintains a set grout-line width. These grids can be very helpful for square floor areas. But you may have to remove them to adjust the grout widths to compensate for spaces that aren't ruler perfect.

Another important consideration when choosing a field tile is the availability of trim tiles to handle comers, appliance installations and the like. In general, the more pedestrian the tile design, the wider the selection. Ask your dealer for a chart showing the bullnose, cove, cap and sink corner pieces available with each tile you're considering. Some common styles are shown in the accompanying diagram. You may also need specialty items, such as soap dishes, grab rails or towel racks. If so, be sure they're available in the tile design you choose.

Substrates

It's probably fair to say that most tile installations that fail do so because of what they're stuck to. Tile itself, the grout that surrounds it, and often the adhesive that bonds it to the substrate are very rigid. If the substrate flexes, at best, the grout lines will crack; at worst, the tile will break loose and fall off.

Tile can be mounted successfully almost anywhere on solid concrete or on backer board (fiberglass-reinforced mortar panels that are hung in much the same way as dry wall) and in some locations on exterior plywood or on moisture-resistant dry wall—as long as they're sufficiently thick and well anchored. Let's look at different types of installations to see which substrates are appropriate.

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