Installing Hardwood Flooring

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They're moisture-resistant and ideal for kitchens, but usually are not waxed and must be completely removed for refinishing. Prior to the advent of synthetic plastics, varnish and shellac were common. Today, polyurethane is often used in a two-coat layer on top of a compatible penetrating sealer. A third type of finish you may come across—the Swedish finish—is actually a surface coating that has the lustrous appearance of the penetrating genre. It's resilient, wears well and won't peel or crack—a natural for softwood floors.

The only trouble is that its ureaformaldehyde formula demands the experience of a professional if the application is to give good results. Before applying any finish, read the instructions carefully. They'll probably tell you to stir the mixture, acclimate the product to room temperature and avoid using open flames in the area. Ventilation may or may not be recommended, but do use a respirator if the room is closed.

In the winter, it's a good idea to temporarily close the room's forced-air heating ducts to avoid blowing dust. Use an 8" to 12" brush or a lamb's-wool applicator to apply the first coat. Work in the direction of the grain, and cover the length of the room several courses wide. When you reach the end of one row, go back and start the next, and so forth

(Fig. 12). Never allow the edge of your work to dry or it will leave a lap mark; heavy spots and puddles should be spread as you go to keep the finish color consistent. When the floor is dry, it's best to buff it with medium-coarse steel wool

(No. 2), using a circular hand motion or an electric buffing machine.

Polyurethane should be brushed on top of the sealer coat, though an applicator can be used if you work first against the grain, then with it in long, even strokes. If you're using a brush, work only in the direction of the grain, but lap back into the forward stroke at the end of each sweep. Follow the same narrowrun pattern mentioned earlier. Usually, the initial coat of polyurethane is buffed smooth; then a second coat is brushed on, but left unbuffed. If you've built up a number of coats of penetrating seal and aren't planning to use polyurethane, apply a good paste finishing wax to protect the finish within the wood.

After replacing the baseboard and adding the shoe mold, you may have to trim or replace the thresholds under the doors—special reducers are available that allow inconspicuous level changes from room to room when the finished floor heights are different. Once they're in place, step back and admire your work. If you did the job correctly, you may very well be looking at it for a lifetime.

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