THE ALASKAN FIREWOOD CUTTING RACK
(Page 2 of 2)
My prototype consisted of two pairs of ordinary metal fence
posts spaced to allow the saw to cut through the whole
stack. I simply left one layer of permanent logs on the
bottom to act as a buffer to keep my saw out of the frozen
ground beneath the wood. I also lashed a crosspiece to each
pair of poles, placed just above the bottom layer of wood,
and tied the tops of the posts together to keep them from
spreading.
RELATED CONTENT
With a few snipped bits of wire and a few twists of the pliers, you can create these wonderful pint...
A WOODSTOVE... IN A VOLKSWAGEN November/December 1981 This idea isn't for everybody, but it's helpe...
Texas-based Willhite Seeds has the perfect watermelon for any taste. Choose from a variety of color...
Stuart Silverstein shares the solution to his water supply problem: installing a faucet near the bo...
For many North Americans, now's the time to scour our sagebrush ecosystems for free meals! ...
The results were promising, so I went on to build a
permanent rack incorporating a few improvements. I used
longer posts, allowing me to stack the wood as high as I
could safely reach. I used saplings for these uprights
because they were less expensive and safer than metal
posts. And I eventually settled upon five pairs of posts
rather than two, spaced at the desired stovewood length to
act as built-in cutting guides and to keep the lengths from
tumbling out after they were sawed.
This system was fast; I could cut through two sledloads, up
to two dozen small subarctic logs, in under fifteen
minutes. It was safe; the cut sections stayed in place as I
worked. It was fuel-efficient, since my chain saw was
always working instead of idling uselessly on the
sidelines. And the rack handled logs of varying lengths if
I was careful to cut from alternating ends to keep them
centered.
Of the dozens of improvements I made around that cabin over
the years, nothing so simple had ever paid off so
handsomely. If you have access to fairly straight logs,
branches or even old, untreated boards, I can highly
recommend this simple rack. It sure beats cutting wood one
slow stick at a time.
Wooden posts keep the logs in place and don't present a
hazard to the chain-saw blade. Sink them 12" or more in the
ground, and don't make them any taller than you can safely
reach. Rope binders at the top of the posts prevent the
uprights from spreading. Log buffers laid flat on the
ground provide a permanent base and keep the saw blade out
of frozen earth. A wooden crosspiece lashed to each pair of
posts strengthens the yoke and raises the work above the
buffers. Spacing depends on firewood length. To get stove
wood 24" long, the five post sets should be placed 2'
apart. To determine the front-to-back measure, let the saw
be your guide—a 20" chain bar would call for a
distance of 18" or so between posts.
Page:
<< Previous 1 | 2 |