The King of Backyard Swings

Enlarge Image Image Gallery You'll have to think big, even when building for little people. The play set takes up a 16' X 20' space and stands about 12' tall. Photo by Bob Casagrande

MOTHER has never been one to turn down a good offer, so when Iowa reader Paul Swenson agreed to share his plans for a back-yard recreation set, we took him up on it. His design came from studying play sets in public parks and looking through dozens of catalogues. His motivation? Downright practical:

"The garden was becoming a pain, so I put a sandbox there, and I made it big so I could play in it with my daughter. The measurements are based on what could be done using 8' railroad ties, standard lumber and nice round numbers."

Happily, the information and sketches Paul provided allowed our research and workshop specialist, Dennis Burkholder, to build a duplicate in a staffer's back yard (he also worked in a few changes for improvement's sake). The finished play set, dubbed "swing city" by the kids (more for the capital sprawl of its 12' X 16' X 20' dimensions than for its hanging hardware), was a sensation even before bolt one was drawn tight.

Before breaking ground in your own yard, see if you have the room. Though the sandbox is less than 9 feet square, the top beam extends some 2½ feet and 5½ feet beyond either side. The slide projects nearly 12 feet forward of the sandbox.

If space isn't a problem, materials and tools should be a cinch. All the lumber and hardware you'll need are itemized in the materials list—nothing unusual, except perhaps for the galvanized slide surface, which any sheet metal shop should be able to fold up for about $40. An average collection of tools will get the job done, but in addition to a tape measure, claw hammer, large screwdriver, locking pliers and adjustable wrench, you should have a crosscut handsaw, a coping saw, a level and a protractor, a shovel, a rake and a 3/8-inch electric drill with 1/8-inch and 3/l6-inch bits, and a long ½-inch spade bit. A circular saw can be used for the few rip cuts if you don't have access to a table saw.

Since the playground will constantly be exposed to the elements, pressure-treated lumber and galvanized or plated hardware are the best choices. Latex paint and other wood-surface sealers can and probably should be used, but it's a good idea to let the wood weather for at least three months before applying any sealer or paint coating.

Once your materials are ready, you can begin the assembly of the sections, starting with the sandbox and the overhead beam framing, moving to the deck, its railing and the ladder, then tackling the slide. The swing hardware can be put up last.

To set the sandbox, level a 9' by 9' area, and place the first course of foundation timbers in a square, with ends meeting sides. Overlap the second course on top so the upper joints don't meet the lower ones, then spike the two courses together from the sides.

The beam consists of two 2 X 6s capped with a 2 X 4. It can be glued and clamped, then nailed together ... or even bolted, if you wish. Refer to the drawing, and mark the holes for the swing eyes first, so you don't put a nail in the wrong place. When the beam's finished, drill the eye holes through its center and bolt in the six eyes. Now position and drill the four ½-inch cross-holes where the legs will join the beam. The distance between the two sets of holes should be 3½ inches less than the actual inside measurement of the sandbox.