LUNT CARPENTRY
(Page 5 of 10)
For straight cuts, first make sure the blade is set just
1/8" deeper than your board (it works more efficiently and
tears the wood less). Then hold the saw so the power cord
and your body are out of the way, start the motor and let
it reach full speed before the blade enters the wood.
Unfortunately, the guide sights at the front of a circular
saw often don't work well as guides (don't ask me why), so
you have to look around the side and watch the blade itself
moving along your cutting line. That means you'll need to
wear safety goggles to keep flying sawdust out of your
eyes. (Earplugs are good, too, for muffling the noise.)
RELATED CONTENT
Energy and water spending bill clears for Obama's pen, homeland security bill next...
Electric saws make projects easier and boost efficiency, but if you're not careful, they can cause ...
Guide to buying this versatile, useful power tool, including eyeing the offerings, what to look for...
Results without much effort? Fitness experts weigh in on 4 new products...
Mother's In-Line Collector How to construct an easy-to-build solar water heater that's bound to cut...
The first inch of a cut is all-important. Get that straight
and the saw'll pretty much steer itself. If it's off your
line, though, pull the saw out and start again. If
necessary, hold the blade guard handle back with one hand,
and evenly push the saw all the way through the wood with
the other, letting it rest flush on the supported board
(Fig. 7). Don't push it too hard—forcing the tool
increases the risk of accident and can damage the motor.
Don't try to back a circular saw out of a cut while it's
running—it may kick back instead. Turn the motor off
as soon as the cut is finished, but don't put the saw down
until the safety guard has snapped back into place and
completely covered the blade.
Leave the line . This carpenter's axiom means you
want to cut just along the waste side of your penciled
line, so you can still see the line on the wood piece you
use. Why? Because the width of a saw cut (the kerf) can be
substantial (1/8" or more), so if you cut on the
line, you'll remove wood from your measured side, as well.
(For the same reason, don't mark a series of cuts all at
once on a board: The kerf waste will throw them off. Mark
one, cut one. Then mark the next, cut the next.) So don't
forget: Cut so the line stays on the piece you want,
not on the waste piece.
Are you having trouble making the saw run straight across
the cut? Then once you've got it lined up to start your
cut, set a speed (or other) square flush against the saw's
other side, and hold it there while you cut. That'll help
keep your saw on course and give you a beautiful finished
cut. A speed square's 45°-angled side makes an
especially useful guide when you need to make 45° cuts.
Nailing
Finally, the soul (and sometimes frustration) of carpentry:
driving nails. Real carpenters can wham a nail home in two
or three hits, but that skill comes with practice,
lots of practice. (I still can't do it.) These
tricks will help, though.
Page:
<< Previous 1 |
2 |
3 |
4 | 5 |
6 |
7 |
8 |
9 |
10 |
Next >>