Turn a Window into a Door
(Page 4 of 4)
May/June 1987
Dennis Burkholder
10. Heft the door into place from the outside (with the exterior trim on the frame). If you're using a drip edge at the top (highly recommended if the door is exposed to weather), be sure to slip it beneath the siding. Check the fit of the exterior trim to the siding, and mark any adjustments that you need to make. If everything fits well, tack a couple of nails through the trim into the frame to prevent the door from falling out.
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11. Close the door in the frame, and check the gap between the door and frame all the way around. It should be between 1/16" and 1/8". If it tapers, the frame is out of square and you need to adjust it. If the jambs bow in at some point, you'll have to compensate when you shim between the jambs and framing.
12. Slip pairs of tapered door shims (you can get a package at the hardware store or simply use pieces of tapered shingle) between the jambs and framing so they will stay without falling but don't bow the door inward. If the jambs need to be bowed in or out to get the right fit to the door, adjust the shims accordingly. Use three sets of shims on each side (generally right above the hinges and in corresponding spots on the opposite jamb) and one at the top. When you're satisfied with the fit and sure the jambs are flush with the interior wall surface, nail through the jambs and shims and into the framing with finishing nails.
13. Nail the exterior trim to the frame, and seal it to the wall with caulk. Then move to the inside, and stuff the spaces between the jambs and framing with the leftover insulation. Don't force it in, or you'll bow the jambs inward. This is also a great place to use foam insulation. The last step is to apply the interior trim, cutting the baseboards to butt against the door trim.
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