AN AUTOMOTIVE SUMMERIZATION

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Change the oil and filter; your car will almost smile.

Automatic transmissions use a high-detergent lubricant specified by the manufacturer. Usually, the level is checked when the car is idling and has reached initial operating temperature. After setting the parking brake, move the shift lever slowly through all the gear positions, then back into park. Allow one more minute of idling, then read the dipstick's "cold" side, if that's indicated. Add fluid, if necessary, through the dipstick tube until it reads correctly on the stick. Don't overfill or underfill: Doing so will affect the transmission's performance.

The power steering system uses automatic transmission fluid as well. Merely fill the reservoir if the cap stick shows the level at "add." Keep the fluid level below the cold mark if you check it cold; any extra fluid will just spew out when the engine heats up.

Brake fluid must meet the Department of Transportation standards indicated in the owner's manual. Check the reservoir at the master cylinder located on the engine compartment fire wall, and fill it to within 1/2" of the top if needed. Be careful not to spill any fluid on finished surfaces, because it removes paint instantly.

Unless you have the tools and experience to check the differential and manual transmission fluid levels, it's easier to let a mechanic do those jobs. But don't just ignore these components, because they can leak and are very costly to replace.

Cooling System

Overheated engines stop more summertime progress than anything except flat tires; check your cooling system. For starters, squeeze the radiator hoses. If they're unusually stiff, they've probably been overheated. Soft and gooey? Oil contamination. Or perhaps they've been physically damaged by tight clamps or contact with a sharp corner. Replace them—along with heater hoses, choke warming lines and bypass elbows that show similar characteristics. Be certain to clean all fittings thoroughly before installing the new hoses, and always use new wormdrive clamps rather than trying to reuse the old ones.

Now inspect the fan and water pump belt, using the same criteria as those used for the alternator drive. Should you need to replace the belt, test the water pump bearings by grasping the fan blades or pump shaft and shaking the assembly up and down while the belt is off. If you can detect lateral movement of the shaft, the water pump may need to be replaced, too. (Some cars have electrically driven radiator fans, so disconnect their terminals while testing, and concentrate on the pump shaft alone.)

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