AN AUTOMOTIVE SUMMERIZATION

Article Tools

Image Gallery

Print

E-mail

Comments

RSS

Remove the filler caps at the top of the battery, and add enough distilled water to cover the cell plates if they're exposed. Inspect the battery hold-down clamps; tighten or replace them if necessary.

While you're at it, take a look at the alternator drive belt. The outer face may appear fine, but twist it slightly to check the tapered sides. A healthy belt shouldn't be cracked, shiny-smooth or flecked with oil stains. If you must replace or tighten the belt, don't put excessive pressure on the alternator housing, or you may distort it; draw it firmly against the belt so there's about 1/2" up-and-down deflection on the longest stretch.

Filters and Breathers

The air filter is one of the least expensive parts on your car, yet one of the most ig nored. On a conventional carbureted engine, it's located in the round housing above the rest of the motor; fuel-injected models may house it in a chamber off to one side. Replace the element if it's been on the car for more than 24,000 miles (sooner, if you drive under dusty conditions frequently). A good test is to shine a light through the ribbed section from behind. It'll be visible if the filter is OK. Check the gasket between the filter housing and the carburetor, and the condition of the corrugated hot air duct, as well.

DRIVE TRAIN: Worn universal or constant-velocity joints can pose a hazard. Check for excessive play in the drive shaft. More than a fraction of an inch is too much.

In-line fuel filters should also receive attention if they're old. The kind threaded to the carburetor should be removed with two wrenches, one to hold the carb nut and one to unscrew the filter. You can pull canister types from the line after you've loosened the hose clamps. Be sure to look for a direction-of-flow arrow when you install the new filter. (Fuel-injected engines have pressurized fuel systems, so it's best to leave their filters to a professional.)

The positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) valve-located within a rubber grommet on the air cleaner housing, valve cover, intake manifold or oil filler cap-should rattle freely when shaken. If it doesn't, replace it and the small breather filter inside the housing or cap. Both parts simply press into place. In the process, you can inspect the neoprene ventilation hoses for kinks or tears.

Lubricants and Fluids

The biggest favor you can do your vehicle before a long trip is to change its oil and filter. Use a box or socket wrench to remove the crankcase plug in the oil pan, and let the old oil drain into a leak-free container. Unscrew the filter (you may need a strap wrench), and let it drain there as well. Coat the new filter's rubber seal with clean oil, then tighten the canister in place on the block using hand pressure only. Replace the oil pan plug (don't overtighten it), and fill the crankcase to the capacity specified in the owner's manual.

RSS | Comments | E-mail | Print