My "Truss-Worthy" Chairs

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To save you the trouble of planning, I've done it for you. If you're purchasing dimensional lumber, one 8' piece will cover parts A and C; another 8' board will make parts B and D; a 6' length will supply parts E, G, and one slat from F; and a 12' plank can be cut to yield the nine remaining F slats.

Basically, the chair consists of two side frames (which you make, one at a time, on the jig) connected by seat slats, back slats, and two cross braces.

Begin by constructing the left side frame, using Fig, 2 as a guide. Lay your jig flat on a worktable, and place a leg piece (A) against each of the trapezoid's angling sides so that the ends of each leg butt against the jig's bottom board (R). Now position the bottom rail (B) lengthwise against the bottom edge of the jig's crosspiece (T), and mark where the rail overlaps the legs (each of its ends should extend equally from the outside edge of each leg). Then set the rail aside for a moment, squeeze enough glue (yellow carpenter's or any resin adhesive) onto the marked areas to cover them thoroughly, and put the bottom rail back into place. Finally, while holding one leg and the rail firmly in position with one hand, drive two 1-1/4" 3d finishing nails or wire brads into the joint. Do the same with the opposite leg. With hardwoods, it's best to dip the fasteners in paraffin to keep the wood from splitting.

Next, position, glue, and nail the top rail (C) into place as shown in Fig. 2, making certain that piece is pushed firmly against the jig's top cross member (U). As you can see from the illustration, the top rail's right, or forward, end should extend 2" in front of the front leg. (NOTE: When you build the right side frame, position the top rail the other way around—with the left end extending 2" outward from what will be its front leg.)

Now you're ready to install the left side frame's final two members. Place the long back rail (D) flush along the left side of the jig's triangle, positioning the corner of D's bottom end flush with the lower edge of the bottom rail (B). The top end of the back rail will then extend across, and well beyond, the joint you just made at the rear leg and top rail. Glue and nail the component in place, using two 2" finishing nails at the top joint and a couple of 1-1/4" brads at the bottom.

With that done, position a front support piece (E) along the right side of your jig's triangle, with the outside corner of the part's bottom end flush with the lower edge of B, and the inside corner of its top end flush with the top rail's upper edge. If the support's been cut a bit long, make sure the excess is toward the bottom, where it won't interfere with the slats. Now glue and nail the front support in place, again using a pair of 2" finishing nails at the top and two 1 1/4" brads at the bottom.

Remove the completed side frame, put it on a solid work surface, and center-punch all the nails to draw each joint up tightly and to sink the heads below the wood's surface. Nowset the frame aside for at least 24 hours to allow the glue to dry. Don't skip this required step! If you do, you'll loosen each glue joint when you hammer the slats and braces in place, and your chair won't last more than a week.

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