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The control mechanism simply uses the threads on the rod to hold the table at the desired height. The shorter, base-mounted clevis shaft is cross-bored and tapped for 5/1618 thread, while the bed-mounted piece gets a full 5/16" hole to allow the rod to rotate freely (it's captured with locking nuts on both sides of the shaft). Both clevis shafts are end-drilled and tapped to accept the 1/4-20 machine bolts that serve as mounting pivots.

In preparation for using the sander, it's important that you set it up correctly. The roller frame must first be leveled by adjusting the nuts on the four 1/2" stanchions, and the tension on the pinion guides set so the rollers distribute equal (but not too much) pressure on the work. When wrapping the sanding belt around the drum, do it in a spiral, or "barber pole," pattern, and use a contact adhesive so you'll be able to change the belt easily. Since the drum must rotate toward the workpiece as it's being fed, wrap the belt in that direction, so it'll tend to tighten rather than loosen as it spins. (If necessary, secure the ends of the belt with staples sunk near the drum's edges.)

And, for safety's sake, never operate the sander without its drum and belt guard attached, and don't stand directly in front of the work as you crank it in, since it could kick back on you. Also, make a habit of using closed coat sanding belts, which are made to handle high drum speeds.

Even an occasionally used project is worth building right; take the time to make this one worthwhile, and its performance will reflect your extra effort.

Click here to view the surface sander diagram.

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