Building the Traditional Hewn-Log Home

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PRESERVATIVES AND FINISHES

Unless you plan to build with an extremely soft and rot-prone wood (such as aspen), there's really no need to apply a preservative. You can virtually eliminate rot in your lifetime by using the most rotresistant wood you can get your hands on for the two sill logs and resting them atop a sheet metal-capped stone or concrete foundation that's at least a foot above the ground (18" is better), and by thoroughly peeling the logs and providing enough roof overhang to protect the walls from frequent soakings by rain and snow. If you feel you must use a protective coating, opt for a clear, low- or nogloss sealer (such as linseed oil or polyurethane) and steer clear of potentially hazardous chemical wood preservatives.

TOOLS OF THE LOGSMITH'S TRADE

T he chain saw is the single exception to Peter Gott's "traditional hand tools only" rule. Even if you buy your timbers milled and ready to notch, you'll find that a chain saw is a real time-saver for cutting those notches, as well as for expediting numerous other construction chores. And if you plan to harvest your own logs, you'll need a muscular chain saw and the knowledge to use it safely and maintain it.

In addition to a good chain saw, several specialized tools are required for harvesting, handling, and working logs. Fortunately, most all of them are rugged, relatively inexpensive hand tools. You may already own some or all of the more common of these—chalk line, steel tape measure, level, claw hammer, brace and bits, handsaw, dividers, framing square, and sawhorses—since they're used for virtually every type of construction.

Additionally, you'll want to beg, borrow, or buy the following traditional log-working hand tools:

Single-bitted ax: This handy chopper has many uses in log building, as well as being a homestead necessity.

Double-bitted ax: The superior balance of the double-bitted ax allows for more precise cutting than is possible with the common (singlebitted) ax. You can sharpen one edge of a "two-bit" to a thin taper for fast, precise cutting, while giving the other blade a blunter taper that will hold its edge better for rough cutting, perhaps when there's a chance you'll be chopping into dirt or buried rocks.

Broadax: This ancient, wicked-looking tool was developed specifically for squaring and shaping logs. If you plan to hew your cabin timbers by hand, a broadax—with its short handle and wide, heavy, specialized blade—is indispensable. Since the broadax is held flat against a log for hewing, the blade is beveled only on the side facing away from the work. Additionally, the handle of a broadax angles away from the head (broadaxes come in right- and left-handed models) to save your knuckles from injury.

Draw knife: This tool is used primarily for shaving the bark from logs. It consists of a blade (18" is an average length) with tangs on each end bent back and fitted with handles. The blade is beveled on its top edge and flat on the bottom surface, where it meets the wood. The draw knife is held perpendicular or at a slight angle to the length of the log being worked and, as its name implies, is drawn toward the user.

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