Building the Traditional Hewn-Log Home

Article Tools

Image Gallery

Print

E-mail

Comments

RSS

[5] Hook the framing square over the squared end of the log and make a mark 9" in from the end, since we're working with a hypothetical 6"-thick log. This 9" represents the 6" notch length plus a 3" extension beyond the notch. The extension is primarily an aesthetic touch and can vary from zero to 4" or more according to taste. If we were using 7"-thick logs, we'd measure in 10", etc.

[6] Measure the proper distances (obtained with the mathematical formulas discussed earlier) above and below the chalked centerline and draw in the notches using a 1:3 triangle to attain the correct angles. (Remember that the bottom notch always slopes up and in from the end of the log, while the top notch slopes down from inner face to outer.)

[7] With a helper (or an awl) holding the 9" line of steel tape over the 9" mark on the log, measure and mark the log to its exact building length. If corner notches are to be cut on both ends of the log (ends that meet window or door openings or that are to be spliced don't receive corner notches), make a mark 9" in from the end mark you just established, so that you have a mark 9" in from each end.

[8] Use the square to draw a line across the second end, and saw it off as square as possible.

[9] Lay a level across the log (perpendicular to the centerline) at a flat, accurately hewn spot and level the log on the sawhorses by inserting wooden shims between the log and the horses. Now check the log ends and, if necessary, shave them with a slick until they're smooth and level.

[10] Use a level to draw vertical lines down both ends to aid in transferring the longitudinal centerline to the opposite (outer) face of the log.

[11] Using a 1:3 triangle and a level held vertically, draw the slope of the upper notch on one end of the log.

[12] If both ends of the log are to receive corner notches, mark the slope of the upper notch on the opposite end.

[13] If both ends of the log are to receive corner notches, hook a square over the second end and observe where the intersecting notch line falls on the inner face of the log. (It may not be exactly at the 9" mark.) Make a mental note of this measurement, then turn the log over and mark the same spot on the opposite (outer) face.

[14] Snap a centerline down the second (outside) face.

[15] Lay out the notches on the outer face. (The upper notch line on the outer face is an extension of the sloped line marked across the end.)

[16] Extend the notch lines across the rounded (bottom and top) surfaces of the log.

CUTTING THE NOTCHES

To make all but the beveled top-notch cut, Peter-a Michelangelo with a chain saw-works with the log laid flat, cutting in halfway from each side and undercutting slightly to form a concave surface. He makes the lengthwise cuts first, then the crosscuts. This method provides less opportunity for the saw to jump across the kerf and cut too deeply, and also eliminates splinters. For your first few cuts, stay away from the lines and remove any excess wood later with a slick. As your skill and confidence develop, however, you'll get to where you can cut right to the line with the chain saw.

RSS | Comments | E-mail | Print