How to Make Crossbows: The Classic Crossbow

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As we mentioned before, you can install a trigger safety mechanism according to our detail. Both the trigger and the safety catch are returned by small compression springs set into slots cut through the central spine.

Before assembling the stock for good, you'll want to bevel the inner surfaces of the barrel, and round the entire frame's outer edges. The rough work can be done with a grinder or file, and the metal then can be smoothed with emery cloth. Save the final extra-fine polishing for later, after you've bolted and pinned everything together and completed the cosmetic work.

The next portion of the project includes setting the bolt tang (the spring-steel leaf that holds the projectile snug against the barrel), adding the wooden (or Delrin) slides to the flanks, and cutting, shaping, and fastening the walnut inserts that dress the shoulder extension. (These pieces can be cut to shape using the template as a guide, then rounded with a sander and bolted or glued to the aluminum spine prior to being finished with varnish or tung oil.)

The front sight is a piece of 1/16" X 5/8" X 6-1/2" strap aluminum bent into an open frame configuration so the bolt can pass through it. It's fastened to the top of the forestock with two No. 6 X 1/4" machine screws, and a short cap screw locked through its crown serves as a bead. Though we used a machined ring at the rear (to provide a housing for an experimental scope sight), you can make an excellent sighting post by simply drilling and tapping a hole at the top of the receiver to accept a 632 socket-head cap screw about 1-1/2" in length. This can then be adjusted up or down for sighting.

We ordered a prod with a draw strength of 175 pounds ...but even if you choose a lighter bow to lengthen string life, you'll probably need a cocking lever to pull it into position. You can make one by bending four sections of 1/8" X 1" flat metal to create a two-armed, bolt-together yoke that uses mechanical advantage to ease cocking (see illustration). A pair of slots in the stationary part of the lever hook into a 5/16" X 3" steel rod fitted into the crossbow's forestock (this should be located as indicated on the template and pressed in place before you install the prod), and another set of slots cut into the short "jack arms" catch the string. The fulcrum's just a movable collar that can be locked into the optimal position.

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