How to Make Crossbows: The Classic Crossbow

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Admittedly, it would have been nice if we'd been able to construct our own short bow by using common materials ...and believe us, we tried! But the laminated fiberglass plods we laid up just didn't have adequate draw strength or the resiliency to stand up to repeated use, possibly because we weren't able to duplicate the heat-and-pressure curing process used by commercial manufacturers. Barnett Crossbows sells prods, strings, bolts, and other accessories.

To ease construction, we've outlined the crossbow's major parts and drilling point within a grid, which will allow you to make up-scaled templates for the metal pieces. But play it safe by matching the templates perfectly before taping them to the metal and scribing their outline ...and be even more careful when actually cutting the aluminum stock, since [1] the pieces must join closely or you'll be spending a lot of time with the file, and [2] the center spine's weak spot—the trigger guard—should not be any thinner than 7/32".

The best way to trim the parts accurately, by the way, is to use a band saw equipped with a metal-cutting blade. Because the smooth operation of the trigger and stringy catch depends in great measure upon the perfect alignment of the three stock component, we suggest that you postpone drilling the flank pieces until you've bored the 9/64" post holes according to the center points indicated on the template. Once those sockets are complete, clamp the aluminum center spine to one of the flanks and recheck the alignment, using the template cutout from the trigger housing. Then drill corresponding holes in the one flank piece

With that done, use No. 6 X 3/4" machine screws as temporary locating pins for the two bored components, and clamp the second flank piece in place. When you're satisfied that all three parts are evenly mated, drill the final member. Since the post screws are recessed, you'll need to countersink the exterior openings with larger bits according to the design of the screws and nuts you've chosen.

The steel trigger components have to be thinned by 1/64" in order to allow them freedom of movement within the stock. Once this is done, those parts can be drilled where indicated with a 1/8" bit, and the 1/8" X 3/4" expansion pin pivots can be pressed in and centered. The pivot pins ride in 9/64" sockets drilled into the right and left flank pieces; to be on the safe side, you might want to use the trigger-housing template cutout to position those openings accurately.

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