Troubleshooting Major Appliances
(Page 6 of 8)
July/August 1984
By Rob and Mary Kriske
RELATED CONTENT
Air and Sand Lines/Air Supply
January/February 1982
Issue # 73 - January/February 1982
See ...
You can take advantage of the effects of passive cooling by planting vines to cover your mobile hom...
Efficient options to cool a room and slash your energy bill....
Are you looking for ways to save energy? You might want to take a closer look at your refrigerator,...
MORE WAYS TO RECYCLE OLD REFRIGERATORS INTO LOW COST SOLAR WATER HEATERS January/February 1978
...
DIAGNOSIS AND TREATMENT
One of the most common misconceptions about the repair of refrigerators, freezers, and air conditioners is that excessive warmth within the unit indicates a need for more Freon. In fact, this gas should be added only as a last resort. The Freon lines in a refrigerator ore sealed ... and once they've been tapped to a Freon, they tend to leak more and more frequently.
Even if an appliance definitely does need Freon, you should never attempt to add it yourself, using cons of the gas sold in hardware stores. instead, allow on experienced serviceperson to recharge the system: The procedure requires work by someone who knows how to evacuate the lines completely before refilling and resealing them.
Light bulb: Always be sure the interior light bulb in your refrigerator is no stronger than 40 watts, since a warmer bulb—even though it may be on for only a few seconds when you open the unit's door-will contribute to heat buildup inside the box.
Door seal: If this seal is torn or cracked, you'll need to replace it with one made specifically for your brand and model. Loosen the screws behind the torn seal and slide out the damaged gasket, then replace it with a new one and tighten the screws securely.
Air circulation: Check to see that the back of your refrigerator is at least four inches away from the wall. That's the minimum clearance required for unrestricted air flow around and through the unit.
Air damper: Some refrigerators have an air damper that's marked "Refrigerator Control" or "Freezer Control." Don't confuse this with the thermostat, which is usually marked "Warmer," "Colder," and "Off." If the refrigerator section is too warm but the freezer compartment is operating normally, turn the control to allow more air into the large cooling section. If, on the other hand, the freezer feels too warm while the refrigerator is very cold, adjust the damper to allow less air into the main section.
Light switch: You can check this door activated switch by pressing on it while the door is open. If the interior light doesn't turn off, it probably has been overheating the compartment, and the switch will need to be replaced. Use a thin screwdriver to push up under the bottom edge of the switch and pop it out. Then remove the wires, reattach them to a new switch, and snap the assembly back into place.
Dirty coils: Your refrigerator's condenser coils may be mounted on the outside back of the unit. If they're within the base of the refrigerator itself, you'll have to remove an access cover—usually at the base of the fridge—to get to them. In either case, they should be cleaned at least once a year, using a high-powered vacuum or a special coil brush to do the job. If you remove a panel or housing to gain access to the coils, be sure to put it back on so that the appliance can draw air efficiently.
Page:
<< Previous 1 |
2 |
3 |
4 |
5 | 6 |
7 |
8 |
Next >>