Troubleshooting Major Appliances

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DIAGNOSIS AND TREATMENT

Fuses and breakers: A dryer's heater runs on 220 volts and its motor on 110 ... so an electric unit requires two good fuses or breakers to function properly. Check them both.

Use a continuity tester or multimeter to check the circuit on a possibly faulty dryer thermostat

Thermostats: These temperature regulators are most often located near the dryer's fan housing or exhaust passageway. Look for round disks (there are usually two) that each have two wires attached. Before you do anything technical, tap the thermostats' housings lightly with a screwdriver ... it's possible that a contact is simply stuck, and the tapping may jar it loose. If that doesn't work, you'll need to test the thermostats with your continuity tester or multimeter: First, turn the appliance's timer on—to activate the thermostats—and then unplug the dryer and test the circuit on each thermostat. If no current registers, replace the failed part.

Heating element: Once again, you'll have to search around on your dryer to find where this is located. Look for coiled wire that runs through porcelain insulators (some models' heaters are completely enclosed in a metal housing, though; your owner's manual may give you a hint as to the unit's location if you can't find it easily). Remove the lead wires and test the element with your light or meter. Again, if no continuity is indicated, you'll have to replace the element.

Pilot light: If the pilot light continually goes out—although you've lit it again and again, following the manufacturer's instructions—a new pilot latch-and-unlatch assembly is probably needed. This component is expensive (it'll cost between $25 and $45) and can be tricky to work with. You'd better call a service technician for this one.

Vent: Check the dryer's vent outlet—the place where the machine's exhaust hose feeds through a wall opening—to see if hot air is blowing forcefully through the exit. If not, the vent may be clogged with dust or lint (or even a bird's nest). Remove the obstruction and see if that helps. if the vent itself is clear, check the flexible exhaust tube for kinks and straighten the hose if necessary.

Lint screen: This small filter is usually located behind a trapdoor somewhere inside the dryer and must be cleaned before each load to allow maximum hot air circulation in the machine.

Door switch: This small knob, located inside the door, shuts the machine off when the door is opened, as a safety measure. To test it, depress the switch. If it clicks, then you know the part is functioning properly. If it makes no sound when pushed, you'll have to install a new one. First, though, you'll have to remove the dryer's top in order to get at the defective switch. On many dryers, you can wedge a putty knife blade between the top of the front panel and the underside of the top panel and simply push a spring clip (there may be one at each corner) while lifting upward to raise the "lid." On other models, you may need to remove retaining screws, too. Once you have the top up, just disconnect the door switch and replace it.

Drum obstruction: To see if accumulated lint or some object is preventing the drum from turning, you'll have to remove the machine's front panel. In some models, this will simply be a matter of releasing a spring clip or two (as described above) and pulling the panel toward you. In others, you may hove to pry off a lower access panel first and then—to take off the main partition—remove two large springs (at the panel's bottom corners) and some retaining screws. It's also possible that your particular dryer's front panel supports the drum, in which case you'll need to have some wood blocks on hand to hold the drum up when you've taken off the front portion.

Now clear any lint or other obstructing material from around the drum and its support rollers (if your dryer has them). If there is no visible obstruction, a drive belt may be broken. Here again, you may have to resort to calling a service technician to install a replacement.

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