Troubleshooting Major Appliances

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If all seems OK in those departments, unplug the machine before you proceed any further: Working on any electrical device can be extremely dangerous unless you take that basic precaution. If the appliance can't be unplugged, at least cut off the power on the appropriate circuit. The shock of a high repair bill is one thing, but the shock of zapping yourself carelessly is quite another! Likewise, always make certain you shut off gas lines when working on a gas-powered appliance.

Once you've thoroughly examined the patient and seen to it that you won't get electrocuted or asphyxiated while working on it, you'll be ready to diagnose the problem and administer treatment. Simply consult the applicable chart, study the table's accompanying instructions for individual repair chores, and proceed with the recommended cure.

PARTING THOUGHTS

Even though this guide is relatively limited in scope—after all, it covers only the very simplest of major-appliance repairs—it should help you save considerable money on fix-it bills over the coming years. As you can see, appliance breakdowns are frequently due to very minor problems or malfunctions. Indeed, in many cases, just taking a good look at the machine's workings will reveal a simple solution.

So the next time your old clunker gives out on you, don't reach immediately for the Yellow Pages ... instead, simply grab up your tools and this guide, and be your own appliance doctor!

EDITOR'S NOTE. There are many fine books around-in both bookstores and libraries for those of you who would like to learn more about repairing household appliances. Two that we have found particularly helpful are Complete Guide to Home Appliance Repair by Evan Powell with Robert P. Stevenson (Harper & Row, $12.95) and The Complete Money-Saving Book of Appliance Repairs by Harvey Morgan with Peter Jones (Charles Scribners Sons; currently out of print, but perhaps your library has it).

For hints on how to determine whether your on-the-fritz appliance is beyond fixing cost-effectively, you'll want to read "To Repair or To Replace: That Is the Question" on page 116 of our May/June 1984 issue.

DIAGNOSIS AND TREATMENT

Valve screens: Check to make sure the shut-off valves, which are located where the water pipes emerge from the wall, are open all the way so water can flow through at full force. If they're wide open, you'll need to see if the valve screens are clogged. These filters, installed both at the shut-off valve end of the hoses and at the point where the inlet hoses connect to the machine, are designed to sift grit and other residue from the water. Shut off the faucets at the wall, unscrew the inlet hoses from the back of the washer, and place their ends inside the machine's tub.

If water enters the washer when you turn the faucets back on, you know the shut-off valve screens are clear and that the filters at the machine end may therefore be the culprits. Pull those screens out of the inlet connection with a pair of needle-nosed pliers and thoroughly wash them in a good dish detergent (or replace them if necessary). Of course, if no water come out during your experiment, you can blame the wall-end valve screens ... in which case you'll need to remove and clean (or replace) those filters. General maintenance of any washing machine should include periodic checking and cleaning of these screens.

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