A $100 Industrial-quality Band Saw

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My saw's frame is made from 4" steel tubing (3/16"-wall thickness), which I also purchased at the recycling center. I laid out the design on the garage floor with chalk, and then cut and welded the tubing to match that shape. The wheels are mounted to the tubular frame with 1/4"-steel-plate and angle iron assemblies that are, in turn, welded to the cut-down VW spindles. The lower unit consists of just two side plates, but the upper section incorporates a sliding holder with a tension bolt, to allow the blade to be adjusted . . . or just loosened for changing. In addition, the upper wheel mount plate also incorporates a camber adjustment bolt, which-by altering the wheel's tilt-allows the blade's position relative to the guide bearing to be changed.

The triangulated base for the frame is built from I/4" X 2" X 2" angle iron, with gusset plates between the upright tube and the two angle irons extending from it. Angle iron measuring 1/8" X 1 " X 1 " connects the corners of the triangular base to the frame tube at a point near the underside of the worktable to provide additional rigidity. The work surface itself consists of I/16" sheet steel that was tack-welded to a framework of 1/4" X 2" X 2" angle iron. This table pivots from a semicircle of 1/4" steel welded to one of its supports.

I salvaged a 1/4-HP (1,725 RPM) electric motor from a junked washing machine to power my band saw. (Since clothes washers seldom expire from motor failure, they're an excellent source of these devices.) This small power source is suitable for the light to medium work with wood or metal that I do, but if you plan to tackle some really big jobs with the saw, you'd do better to install a 3/4to 1-HP motor.

To achieve the necessary speed reduction for cutting metal or wood, the saw driver is equipped with a four-step pulley, and I fit two jack shafts (one of which also has a four way pulley) parallel to it. To cut wood, the motor can be linked directly to the lower tire with a V-belt from one of its four grooves. This setup provides four different high-speed settings. When I wish to cut metal, I route the motor's belt to the far jack shaft-which is mounted on two pillow block bearing sand slide the whole motor mounting board over to center the drive pulley from the other jack shaft below the lower tire (see Photo 2). Thus, 16 ratios are available in the slow-speed mode. To keep the proper tension on the drive belt at all times, a threaded rod runs down from the frame to the motor-mount plate. (The motor-mount plate slides and pivots on a rod at the front of the frame so the tension can be changed easily.)

Both the upper and lower guide assemblies are mounted on 1/4" X 2" X 2" angle iron and are made up of pairs of ball bearings. The side guides are fully adjustable to allow blades of a range of sizes to be used on the saw, while the bearings that run against the back of the blade are fixed to their 1/4" X 2" X 2" angle iron brackets. In addition, the entire upper guide can be slid up or down to accommodate material of different thick nesses.

The combination blade guard and cabinet that encloses the working parts of my band saw was built from one sheet of 1/4" plywood. I think the varnished wood is a good deal more attractive than is a conventional plastic or metal case . . . and the resilient material absorbs sound quite well, too.


My recycled-parts band saw has already given me three years of faithful service, and I can see no reason why it won't be standing ready to handle the work at hand for as long as I'm able to use it. The 24"-diameter VW wheels give the blade tremendous surface contact, which helps prevent slippage . . . and the large wheels also reduce fatigue on the blade (since that cutter need not make as sharp a turn as one on a conventional band saw does). In short, it's far superior to any commercial saw I could afford then or now. And when I add up the high quality of this machine, the crinkle of all the dollars I saved, and the glow of making it myself, I figure I came out way ahead on this project . . . no matter how you cut it!

EDITOR'S NOTE: Gene Lemle has prepared a thorough set of plans for building his ingenious band saw, which he's offering for $10 per set. They include a materials list-the parts cost about $100-seven detailed draw ings, and written instructions. We feel certain that Gene's plans are bound to save most builders more than their cost in time and aggravation. To order a set, send $10 to Lemle Products, Dept. TMEN, 1036 Eton Road, Toledo, Ohio 43615. Mr. Lemle is also willing to supply parts or a complete saw. You can inquire about prices for these items by sending him a self-addressed, stamped envelope.

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