HOW TO MAKE AND PLAY A HAMMERED DULCIMER

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Next, with a sharp knife or a nail, make a straight, shallow groove in each bridge to hold the wire capping material in place ... and clean any paint off the coat hanger before cutting it to size and laying it in the groove. Then install the treble and bass bridges under the strings (the pressure of the tuned strings will hold them in place).

To insure that the strings make solid contact with the side bridges, you'll have to lower the height of three or four treble bridges at the rear of the instrument. The bass strings will not contact the right side bridge, and this is normal. However, the proper contact of the rest of the strings with their appropriate bridges is a most important detail, so pay close attention to this factor.

The really critical measurements are those involved in the placement of the treble bridges, which must divide the strings crossing them into tones a fifth apart (a proper fifth interval sounds like the "Twinkle, twinkle" of the song "Twinkle, Twinkle, Little Star"). The distance between the left side bridge and the treble bridges must be two-thirds of that between the right side bridge and the treble bridges (see Fig. 2).

Finally, when you've made a pair of hammers (see Fig. 6), you'll be ready to tune and play your completed instrument.

TUNING AND PLAYING

Keeping the tuning chart provided in Fig. 7 in front of you, begin adjusting your instrument's strings slowly and carefully, using a chromatic pitch pipe (available at all music stores) or a piano for reference. Start by tuning the C# note on the right side of the first treble-course bridge. When this pair of strings is correctly adjusted, you'll have automatically tuned the strings on the left side of the same bridge to G#. Continue up the right side of the treble bridges until you've completed tuning the high C at course number 8 (on the chart). Once that's accomplished, you can adjust the remaining treble and bass courses by setting their notes an octave above or below notes you've already tuned up. For example, to tune the G at the first bass course, compare it with the G you've already tuned up at the right treble course number 5, and simply set it an octave lower. (If tuning is difficult at first, you might want to enlist the help of a musician friend.)

When the strings are in tune, assume a comfortable position that allows free movement of hands, arms, and shoulders ... and get ready to play! Tilting the dulcimer slightly toward you will make it easier for you to reach to the rear string courses. (Many people build themselves stands to hold the instrument at an angle while they play in either a sitting or a standing position.)

It may seem as though the dulcimer is somewhat limited because the player has only two hammers to strike notes with. You'll find, however, that it takes some concentration to keep from adding too much complexity to your playing. Since a dulcimer's design allows it to sustain sounds for quite some time, the instrument gives the effect of sounding more notes than are actually struck. The last few notes played mingle with the new ones, and a great part of the hammered dulcimer's charm lies in the fact that it provides its own background harmony in this fashion.

Begin by attempting familiar melodies in a simple manner, dividing your playing equally between both hands by alternating them as much as possible ... one note with one hand, the next note with the other, and so on. This is probably the single most important playing technique you can develop, and it's worth learning well. You can practice hand alternation and dexterity by playing scales up and down, building your speed and smoothness as you go. By referring to the string-course numbering system (see the tuning chart), you can play the commonly used scales below ... or, with a little retuning, develop others: In addition, here re some of the many chord possibilities you can use:

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