A SHADE-TREE LATHE
Building a homemade wood tool.
 |
PHOTOS SUPPLIED BY THE AUTHOR
|
by Joseph R. Brown
RELATED ARTICLES
Choosing a Christmas tree may not be as simple as you think. There are real trees, artificial trees...
Anyone can bring down a tree safely by preparing carefully and cutting correctly....
Chart of tool manufacturers' offerings in part of Mother's continuing Design Your Dream Workshop se...
MOTHER'S $20 WOOD LATHE March/April 1980 Any aspiring woodworker who has unhappily eyed the monoton...
Though trees may seem hardy, driving heavy equipment over their root zones can cause permanent dama...
Where there's a wheel, there's a way. And with just a
few more odds and ends, you can make . . .
I'm all for a bargain . . . so when I spotted an old seed
cleaner that looked to be in pretty good shape, I couldn't
resist picking it up for a song. But when I got it home, I
began whistling a different tune. A bearing had turned on
the main fan shaft, wearing a neat—but
unwanted—groove deep into the steel rod
(see Photo 1).
Replacing the cold-rolled shaft would have cost as much as
the implement itself, though, and I was determined to make
a repair with the tools and materials I had on hand: an
oxyacetylene torch, some brazing rod, and the contents of
an impressive pile of wood and metal scraps I'd collected
over the years.
What I lacked, however, was a lathe to turn down
and smooth out the brass fill that I'd be using to build up
the score. I decided to use the shaft itself-with the
bearings and pulleys attached to it-as a crude setup that,
I hoped, would spin "true" enough to permit me to do an
accurate finishing job.
To start (see Photo 2), I made a solid base by laying a
10-foot section of 14" X 14" railroad lumber on top of, and
at right angles to, a 2 X 12 plank. Then, using the
position of the shaft's bearings as a guide, I nailed in a
couple of 16-long 2 X 6 uprights-one to the side of the
timber, and the other along the far end of the plank-to
serve as mounts for the bearing flanges. (I had to add some
wood scraps as spacers between the "outside" upright and
the railroad beam, for extra strength.)
It took me only a few minutes to brace the "freestanding"
upright with a couple of 1 X 4 stringers set at 45°
angles. Then I constructed a motor mount by nailing 2-foot
hunks of 2 X 6 across the top of the large timber, parallel
to the shaft and about a foot or so from it. They also had
to be "proud" by 10 or 12 inches on one side so the motor's
pulley could line up with the shaft's.
The rest was simple: I bolted the shaft's bearing flanges
to the ends of the uprights (the bearings on this machine
were the self-aligning type, so everything didn't have to
be perfectly lined up), dug a 1/3-horsepower
electric motor out of my scrap pile, and borrowed one of
the V-belts from the seed cleaner's drive system. Next, I
bolted the motor on its 2 X 6 platform, with the belt
stretched in position.
That done, I let 'er rip to see if the whole shebang would
turn smoothly. It did, so I shut down, got out my torch,
and filled the scored out groove with enough brass rod to
more than pack the worn channel (as shown in Photo
3).
Another trip to my junk pile rewarded me with a 3/8" X 1"
steel bar that was long enough to span the distance between
the two wooden uprights. I nailed that in place on top of
those posts-in line with the shaft (but not quite touching
it)-to serve as a tool rest . . . and got to work.
The most convenient cutting tool I could come up with was a
worn-out 10" file, which I modified by grinding its end
into a sharp, round-nosed tip. I soon learned from
experience to feed the tool very slowly into the built-up
fill (see Photo 4), or it would grab on the rough spots . .
. and I found, too, that it paid to clean up the file's
cutting edge frequently. Naturally, I wore eye protection
throughout the cutting and grinding processes.
As I began approaching the shaft's actual diameter, I
checked my progress with a straightedge laid along the
rod's length. Then I used the face of a fine file to dress
the t:!1. and finished smoothing 'er up with some
extra-fine emery cloth.
Since I didn't have a micrometer, I simply used the
replacement bearing collar as a "fit to size" guide. When
it slipped onto my repair work with a couple of moderate
taps, I knew I was right in the ballpark.
Though many folks would probably have taken the job to a
machine shop, I took pride in the fact that I'd done
something with just about nothing (Photo 5) . . . and that
my final product (see Photo 6) turned out to be as neat as
any shopwork you'd care to see!