Cut-Rate Recumbent Bike

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Make Do With Junk

The remaining components — except the seat — are nothing more than standard bike parts ... either used as is or modified. To make the seat's frame, you'll have to bend a 45 degree angle in your 89" length of 1" E.M.T., starting at a point 9 inches from one end ... measure 16 inches from the completion of that arc ... make another angle, this one at 20° . . . and then immediately form a half circle perpendicular to the plane of the two angles you've just bent. The opposite side of the frame, of course, merely duplicates the first ... and when the whole affair looks even, you can weld the 13 1/2" cross brace between the two ends. (Also, you might take this opportunity to tack on the two tabs, which will later hold the seat shocks, just below the 180 degree curve.)

To fasten the webbing (do so after painting the seat frame), just drill a series of 5/32" holes, at intervals of about 3 1/2 inches, into the underside of the conduit, then cut your strap (you'll need eleven pieces that are each 23" long, four sections of 48" each, and two more 10" long). Fold the ends of each band over several times before locking them in place with the mounting screws (make sure the webbing is stretched fully), and take care that the vertical straps are laced through the horizontal ones. (Note, too, that the two 10" belts should be attached to the same screws that hold the edge webbing to the cross brace. These straps will eventually be fastened to the front axle and will keep the seat in check.)

Now, all that's left is to make a few final parts and put the machine together! The 3/4" X 5" E.M.T. spindles, with their 1/2"-nut inserts (the conduit can be replaced with 1/2" Schedule 40 pipe if you wish), are welded to your bicycle fork tubes — each at a 97 degree angle — and the steering knuckle arms are similarly fastened to the spindles at 112 degrees ... as shown in our illustration. While these joints are cooling, you can cut the center knuckle from your set of dropped handlebars, trim an inch or so from each of the "hook" ends, and drill a 5/16" hole through the side of each curve, close to the tip. Then weld one scrounged handlebar stem to each modified bar, directly in line with the 5/16" hole, and parallel — but opposed — to the straight handle. (You can also slip a stem bolt through each assembly — and a headlight bracket if you're using lamps — and thread the expander plugs loosely in place at this time.)

Next, tap a set of head cups into each head tube, and install the fork tubes and bearings as you would in a normal bicycle. Once these are tightened down, go ahead and slip the handlebar assemblies into the fork tubes, line them up, and sock home the stem bolts.

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