Build Your Own Parts-washing Tank

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Any handyperson who's had the pleasure of using a real parts-cleaning tank has probably developed a bad case of the "wants" as a result of the experience. By comparison, the bucket-and-old-toothbrush method leaves a lot to be desired. Unfortunately, however, the steep prices of commercial parts washers put these devices out of the reach of most tinkerers ... since even the tiniest units start at better than $200, and the more useful 30-gallon models run $300 and up.

The dedicated recyclers at Mother's research center, however, recently decided that the frustration of trying to pick and scrape away decades' worth of slime from their ongoing supply of scavenged "treasures" was too much to bear. As a result of that necessity, we're able to show you the invention in the accompanying photographs: We've dubbed it a "made from recycled parts" recycled-parts washer.

OVER A BARREL

If you examine a commercial parts-cleaning tank in a catalog, you'll note that its two major components are a reservoir for storing the fluid and a basin in which to do the scrubbing. So, in the spirit of "research and imitate". our team dragged out a used 30-gallon drum to serve as the former and bought a castoff stainless steel sink (one of the big single-basin models) for $15, from a local hardware store's scrap pile, for the latter.

As it happened, the sink covered the top of the drum neatly, so three rubber shock k cords stretched as shown in the photographs s have proved to be sufficient to hold the assembly together ... while still allowing the basin to be removed easily for tank cleaning or other service.

KEEP A LID ON IT

The sheet-metal cover for the basin does help limit the evaporation of the expensive solvent, but its major purpose is to contain a conflagration in the event that the flammable liquid ignites. The lid on our tank is formed from a sheet of 22-gauge steel and is held open, from behind, by a tower made from 1/2" electrical metallic tubing (E.M.T.). That stand is secured to the back of the sink with a round electrical box cover that has a 1/2" E.M.T. connector screwed to it. The tubing itself is attached to the connector with the setscrew, and has a bend which prevents the lid from being raised any higher than 5' short of vertical. Consequently, the lid will automatically fall closed unless it's actually held open.

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