Birdfeeders: Build a Bye-Bye Blackbird Feeder
(Page 2 of 4)
May/June 1983
by James Orgill
Now I realize my invention looks like something Rube Goldberg might have designed, but so what? This is the weapon that won the Great Grackle War!
RELATED CONTENT
Build your own details with Dick Shuttleworth’s Chicken Feeder....
You can use discarded beef, chicken and pork fat to make the base for cakes for suet feeders. From...
A house can lose a lot of heat (or cool air) through small cracks and openings. The first step to l...
Attract birds to your yard and garden for year-round enjoyment by making a simple, homemade bird fe...
The contraption worked so well, in fact, that I made a few more and gave them to friends . . . and when they, in turn, told their acquaintances, I got more requests for the feeders than I could possibly fulfill. I was hailed by one and all as a genius . . . a title I blushingly accepted until I discovered that I wasn't the first person to figure out a way to tip the scales against grackles. It seems there's a comparable feeder already on the market . . . the design's different, but it uses the same counterbalanced perch principle!
Nevertheless, I still take a good deal of satisfaction in knowing that—for under $10—I conceived and put together a bird feeder that would have cost several times as much if it had been bought from a store. I suspect there are a lot of MOTHER-readers out there who'd gain a similar feeling of accomplish ment from duplicating the project—and who enjoy small birds (and dislike gangs of greedy ones) as much as I do—so here's a step-by-step guide to the construction of your own counterbalanced "bye-bye blackbird" feeder.
MATERIALS AND TOOLS
First, you'll need to locate the following:
[1] one 8'-long pine 1 X 8
[2] one 1/8" X 1/2" (or 3/4") X 6' aluminum bar (Actually, you need only about 3' of bar for this project . . . but hardware stores generally offer the item only in 6' lengths. Also, the 3/4" size is more commonly available, but some firms do carry 1/2" bar. If there's an aluminum products company in your area, you may want to try that source first.)
[3] one piece of 6-gauge X 4" X 10" brass sheet (it's available at most hobby and hardware stores)
[4] one 3/32" X 12" brass rod (same source as item 3)
[5] two 1/2" X 8-32 bolts, with nuts
[6] six 1" X 8-32 bolts, with nuts
[7] one 2" butt hinge, with screws
[8] 6d finishing nails
[9] four 8-32 tee nuts
[10] metal washers (for the counterweights)
In addition to these materials, you'll need a variety of tools: tinsnips for cutting the sheet metal . . . a hacksaw . . . a drill with several sizes of bits . . . a power saw (table, radial, or handheld circular) for cutting the lumber and making bevels . . . and a hammer, a screwdriver, and some pliers. You should also locate either a soldering iron and solder, or a couple of feet of small-gauge steel wire.
CONSTRUCTION
I've attempted to simplify the directions that follow by breaking down the process into individual steps, and by keying the pieces alphabetically to the accompanying diagrams. You've heard of "paint by number" . . . well, here's "build by letter"!
Step 1. Cut the 1 X 8 pine board into the following components (keep in mind that 1 X 8 dressed lumber actually measures 3/4" X 71/4"):