AN OWNER-BUILT YARD CART FOR UNDER $50

(Page 2 of 2)

May/June 1983
by R.M. Fraza 
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I mounted each axle so that the leading edge of the tire was positioned 3 inches behind the front of the box. (I had calculated that the tongue weightwith a full load of wood-would be less than 20 pounds at this point.)

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Care must be taken—when mounting the wheels and outriggers—to align the wheels and to block them so they remain straight while you secure them in place. (Alternatively, you might want to allow the wheels to slant inward at the bottom, ever so slightly, but only if you think that the weight of your loads will be heavy enough to cause the wheels to deflect to true position.)

The leftover pieces of slotted angle iron were used to reinforce the corners at the front and rear ends of the box. I positioned the front plywood panel at a 45° slant from bottom to top (a la wheelbarrow) to simplify dumping the cart's loads. Finally, I fashioned a support leg made of 3/4" conduit bent to suit, centered it, and mounted it about 6 inches in from the back edge of the box. (Be careful not to position the leg in such a way that you'll kick it when pushing the cart.)

Had I wanted to be more sophisticated in my design, I could've easily installed the brakes that the motorcycle dealer sold to me, utilizing a cam lever which could be attached to the handle. However, I believe in simplicity, and I didn't want to overcomplicate my project.

During the gardening "off season", I store firewood in my cart right outside the back door. It holds more than 500 pounds of split wood, is easily protected with a vinyl covering, and—after several years of use—still shows no signs of wear.

EDITOR'S NOTE: There are some fine ready-made garden carts on the market. Those of you who wish to purchase, instead of make, such a carrier will likely pick up some tips by looking over the ads in the last two issues of this magazine. 

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