Over Two, Under One: Weaving a Reed Basket

Article Tools

Image Gallery

Print

E-mail

Comments

RSS

Now, take a long, pliable No. 2 weaver and fold it at a point 20 inches from one end. Hold the spoke cross with arm A at the top (see Fig. 2) and slip the weaver over that arm with both ends to the back and the short end of the weaver on the left. Take the long weaver down behind arm B, holding it snug but out of the way so you don't cross over it on the next step. Then draw the short weaver behind A, up over B, and under C.

Next, turn the cross so that B is up. Hold the short weaver tight but out of the way, and bring the long weaver in front of C and behind D (Fig. 3). Turn the cross so C is up, and take the short weaver in front of D and behind A, this time holding the long weaver out of the way. Go on to repeat this maneuver, weaving and turning the cross, until there are four rows on each arm . . . front and back.

At that point, leave the short end under A, and — working with the long end of the weaver — begin to separate the spokes with Japanese weave: over two spokes and under one (as illustrated in Fig. 4). Always keep the same surface facing you, and weave in a clockwise direction.

Your first few rows of Japanese weave will probably look a bit square. This situation is quite common . . . it's the result of not separating the spokes enough. Don't be afraid to pull and tug on both spokes and weavers to remedy this . . . they're very strong and can take a lot of stress. By the time you've completed about half an inch of weaving, the spokes should be splayed out evenly like those on a wheel.

Check your work as you go to be sure the base spokes are lying straight (the weavers should do all the bending). The rows of weaving should also be very close together . . . so when a strand goes over two spokes, pull it in toward the center of the base from the back before bringing it up to the front again. When a weaver passes under one spoke, leave enough play so that it doesn't bend the spoke . . . and, again, draw the weaver in toward the center button of the base. (At this point in your project the Japanese weave will look rather jumbled, but after seven or eight rows it'll begin to take on a more recognizable pattern.)

Of course, you're going to use up your initial weaver strand somewhere along the line and need to replace it with a new one. To do so, simply end the first strand behind a spoke and add a fresh length behind the same spoke, crossing over the top of the old weaver in the process (see Photo 1).

Continue using Japanese weave — pushing down gently on the spokes to curve the bottom of the basket slightly — until the base measures 7-1/2" across. The completed piece should look like an upside-down saucer. And with the finished item resting top side up on the table, the center of this saucer shape should be a full half-inch from the table's surface. (The top of the base, of course, is the side on which the spokes are completely covered . . . and it will become the inside of the basket.)

RSS | Comments | E-mail | Print