Homegrown Music: Make a Bamboo Flute Part I

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That's why, in fact, I recommend that you start small and drill each hole in gradually increasing increments up to a maximum diameter of 1/4" to 3/8" . . . and that you check the tone of the note produced at each step. Every time you enlarge the hole, the note will become sharper (higher) . . . and by starting small (flat) and working up, you can pretty much "tune in" each cavity.

Also, as you look at the placement chart, you might notice that there are three "extra" openings, designated la, 3a, and 5a. Most flutes have just six, but Craig has devised a nine-hole system (employing two thumb holes on the underside of the instrument and an additional finger hole). By making more notes available, these additional perforations will allow you to play in two additional keys (those above and below the instrument's base key).

My advice, though, is to make a six-hole model first, and learn to play it fairly well (I'll include fingering charts for six- and nine-hole flutes in Part II). Then add the optional holes to your flute when you've reached the point where you can make good use of the extra notes. (An alternative is to go ahead and make the nine-hole version ... but tape over the three extra openings until you've mastered the basics.)

In any case, drill the hole for the lowest note (the one closest to the open end) first, and once you've tuned it to your liking, proceed to the next, and so on. Remember, though, that the perforations don't have to be in a straight line. As long as you adhere to the recommended distances in the placement chart, you can put each hole anywhere around the circumference of the instrument. Just choose a spot where your finger seems to fall naturally and comfortably when you hold the flute to play.

EDITOR'S NOTE: In the next issue, Marc Bristol will deal with the three F's of the bamboo flute: fine tuning, fingering, and finishing. See Homegrown Music: Make a Bamboo Flute (Part II).

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