A Trio Of Homemade Toys
You probably already have the odds and ends necessary to make these great old-time playthings, including patterns: boom crane, buzz bomber and a doll cradle.
November/December 1982
By the Mother Earth News staff
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Wooden boom crane - see text for downloadable construction details.
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The holiday season's here again, and that means it's time to start figuring how to be sure there are toys under the tree come Christmas morn! But there's no need to sabotage your savings account (if you're one of the lucky folks who still have one) for a passel of fancy storebought amusements. Mother's workshop elves have been busy cobbling up a few goodies for their youngsters . . . and you can duplicate those efforts by referring to the dimensions provided on the accompanying grid diagrams, and following the suggestions given in our descriptions of each toy. We think you'll agree that these playthings are sturdy and easy to assemble. Perhaps best of all, they can provide you with the satisfaction of a job well done . . . and your children with the pleasure that comes from being able to say, "Mom (or Dad) made this for me!"
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Boom Crane
The cab of our handcranked crane is formed by sandwiching a boom (cut from 1 X 6 pine) between two pieces of 2 X 6. A cardboard template will, of course, allow you to trace the proper shape on each section of wood so that you can cut it out with a coping or band saw.
Before joining the three pieces, be sure to drill the series of 1/2" and 3/8" holes in the boom (plus the 1/8" nose hole and a guide slot), as well as the 9/16" and 1-3/4" openings in the cab's sides. Then you can go on to yellow-glue-and finish-nail-the parts together.
The crane's chassis, too, is best formed by using a template. Once that base is complete, you can bore two 9/16" axle holes and a 1-1/16" pivot sleeve through it.
To assemble the components, simply glue and nail the round platform to the cab-and-boom assembly, bore a 1" hole into both, and glue the pivot pin in place. Then, once you've slipped the shaft into its chassis sleeve, a short 1/8" dowel, pressed through a hole at the end of the pin, will keep everything together.
The wheels are cemented to 4-1/2" axles made from 1/2" dowel . . . and finally, the crank-which uses a 1-1/2" and a 4-1/2" length of 1/2" dowel-can be assembled, inserted, and wrapped with a hook-ended string. To keep the crank dowel in place, groove it as shown .. . bore a 1/4" hole through the end of the cab . . . and drive a 1/4" X 3/4" dowel pin into the opening and lightly against the niche.