MOTHER'S LOG LIFTER

Enlarge Image Image Gallery  [1] MOM's low-buck sawbuck clamps down on a big one and . . . [2] lifts it — with the wheels in the forward position — to . . . [3] secure it for slick slicing. STAFF PHOTOS

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Folks who make the switch to wood heat often find that their saving in fuel cost is tempered by the extra effort involved in cutting, splitting, hauling, and stacking the cumbersome combustible. Still, the pleasure of tending a crackling fire — and the sense of independence that burning a renewable fuel can offer — generally makes it pretty easy to overlook the inconveniences.

There's no reason, though, why you can't make your wood harvesting chores a little less bothersome . . . and the log-lifting tool featured will help you do just that! It's more, you see, than a simple hand truck for hauling the heavy ones. It's also able to serve as a sawbuck. . . to hold a hunk of timber while you cut the log to stove-size lengths.

We made our lifter from 1-1/4" square tubular steel, assorted pieces of flat stock, and some garden tractor wheels. It would be a simple matter, though — if you didn't have these components on hand — to build your own version of the worksaver by simply using the dimensions given as a guide and substituting more common round tubing for the square steel . . . and replacing the tractor wheels with rollers of your choice.

The first step in any workshop undertaking, of course, is to gather the tools you'll need to complete the project. This one will require a welder, a hacksaw, a ruler, a protractor, and a power drill with a variety of bits.

Naturally, you'll also have to collect the necessary frame materials. When consolidated, these work out to 21 feet of 1-1/4" square tubular steel (with 14-gauge wall), a 3/8" X 1-1/2" X 40" length of flat stock, another piece of metal strap measuring 1/4" X 2" X 52", a 1/4" X 5-1/2" X 15" plate, and a 1/8" X 1-1/2" X 28" piece of flat stock.

In addition, you'll need a pair of wheels, each with an overall diameter of 16" and a 3/4" axle bore . . . a 36" axle (with washers) to fit that bore . . two pairs of tension springs (one 1/2" X 11" and the other 5/8" X 6") . . . four 1/4" X 1-3/4" eyebolts . . . two 3/8" X 2" bolts with six nuts to fit them . . . and six 3/8" X 1-1/2" bolts, each fitted with a pair of nuts.

Once you've gotten your tools and materials together, cut the full-length steel sections to the sizes indicated in our illustration and prepare to fasten them together. Before you begin welding, though, cut the correct angles for the frame leg and overhead arm joints . . . trim 1-1/4" from each end of the handle on three sides (leaving two tabs that'll cover the open ends of the frame's uprights) . . . and bend the 36-1/2"-long rest bar — using heat if necessary — to form a 35° angle in its center (the ends will then have to be beveled to fit flush with the upright rails). Furthermore, this is probably the best time to drill the holes in the various support tabs.

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