Patchwork Pillows

(Page 4 of 4)

January/February 1982
 
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Then, if you're planning to apply piping, baste the trimming—with the cording facing in—around the patchwork's perimeter, as has been done in Photo 13. Be sure to leave enough room for a 5/8" seam around the edge.

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After the trim has been attached, sandwich the pillow's backing and the patchwork—right sides together—between the muslin squares, as shown in Photo 14.

Pin the layers together and stitch 5/8 inch away from the outer edges . . . or as close to the cording as possible. Be sure to leave an opening—about five inches in length—along one edge of the square so you can insert the stuffing.

Turn the casing right side out, and pack it to the desired plumpness with filling. After that's done, simply fold down the opening's raw edges, pin the gap, and close it off with tiny stitches.

Once you've obtained an elevated level of pillow mastery (which ought to come after you've put together two cushions or so), you can try drafting and assembling other geometric patterns. Just keep in mind that most patchwork blocks are simply a collection of squares . . . and soon you'll realize that a quilt is only a large cluster of patchwork pillow tops!

EDITOR'S NOTE: If you'd like to learn more about quiltmaking, you might want to read the article, "Patchwork Perfection" (issue 72, page 86). To order back issues, turn to page 120.

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