MAKE YOUR OWN SNOWSHOES
(Page 8 of 9)
For short trips you can probably devise an adequate system with a 5-foot length (for each shoe) of neoprene, leather, or even lampwick. Basically, the strap goes over the toe of the boot, wraps securely around the toe cord, crosses over the instep, and ties around the wearer's heel.
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You'll probably decide to try a sturdier commercial binding, however, for serious mountaineering and snowshoeing through rough territory. Bruce Beck (Dept. TMEN, P.O. Box 2223, Santa Barbara, California 93120) sells neoprene in various widths and lengths, as well as his own unconditionally guaranteed bindings. (You can have a copy of Bruce's catalog by sending him a first class postage stamp.)
You can also buy neoprene, rawhide, and bindings from Vermont Tubbs (Dept. TMEN, Forestdale, Vermont 05745). This company—the oldest in the business offers completed shoes and do-it-yourself! kits, too . . . all described in the firm's its catalog.
As for other necessities, you'll find the snowshoeing is one of the simplest winter sports to equip yourself for. Most important is a comfortable pair of boots. In cold areas, leather high-tops are ideal ... in warmer, wetter weather try rubber boots or canvas hiking shoes, worn with a couple of pairs of wool socks. For any expedition, dress warmly in layers (preferably with absorbent cotton undergarments and wool outerwear) ... because snowshoeing is a vigorous activity, and you'll often find that you need to shed some clothing before you've traveled very far
FURTHERMORE . . .
In g eneral, there's not much to be said about technique: If you can walk, you can snowshoe! The only trick is to avoid stepping on the side of one shoe with the other (and then pitching face-first into a snowbank). To prevent such mishaps, you'll have to walk with your legs slightly farther apart than usual ... so don't expect to move as rapidly as you do when wearing lightweight boots on a summer hike.
More how—to details—as well as information about the history of snowshoeing and traditional methods of shoemaking can be found in winter sports guidebooks available at most camping equipment stores or your local library. Two especially good references are Snowshoeing by Gene Prater (Mountaineers, 1974) and The Snowshoe Book by William Osgood and Leslie Hurley (Stephen Greene Press, 1971). You might also like to contact the U.S. Snowshoe Association
You can take pride in the fact that you've created a fine pair of snowshoes. Be sure to care for your handcrafted footgear lovingly, and it'll last through years of hard winter trekking. Whenever the finish on the frames begins to took worn, give them another coat of waterproof varnish ... and don't forget to "paint" the lacing as well, if it's made of rawhide. Store the shoes in a cool, dry place and —particularly if you live deep in the woods—hang them out of the reach of gnawing rodents.
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