Homegrown Music... and Musical Instruments!
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Down-home musician Marc Bristol sings and strums a tune at a local music festival.
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dulcimers revisited!
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Homegrown Music.. .and Musical Instruments January/February 1981
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Are you thinking of taking up a folk instrument? Then come along as a well-known mountain musician ...
by MARC BRISTOL
Even homesteaders need to relax and enjoy themselves from
time to time, right? And almost everybody these days wants
to cut his or her cost of living. So how about a little
do-it-yourself entertainment?
And that's what this column is all about. Down-home
music that you can make . . . and the instruments (which,
in some cases, you can also make!) to play that music
on.
The important thing is that this is your
column. If you like it, write to me and let me know. If you
have some ideas for this feature, let me know that. I'm
open to any suggestions or information you care to
contribute. I'll even try to answer your questions about
down-home music . . . but—both for the benefit of all
MOTHER's readers and to ease my correspondence
load—I'll deal with those questions, whenever
possible, here in this column . . . rather than in personal
letters.
Address your correspondence for this column
and this column only—to Marc Bristol, 18520 312th
Ave. N.E., Duvall, Wash. 98019.
When I covered the subject of dulcimers a
couple of issues back in MOTHER NO. 67, I thought
it might result in a popular article. Well, the many
responses that you've sent to me—and to those folks
in the dulcimer business whom I referred to in the
column-certainly proved me correct on that score . . . so
I'm plunging right in with some more tidbits I've
gathered since that article was written.
HAMMERED DULCIMERS
Actually, I'm going to start this column with a discussion
of hammered dulcimers: large, many-stringed
musicmakers-played with small sticklike hammers-which are
really quite different instruments from the smaller,
threeor four-stringed Appalachian "lap" dulcimers I
described in issue 67. (Well, the two instruments aren't
completely different . . . they do both belong to
the zither family.)
The name "dulcimer" has been associated with the hammered
variety since biblical times, but has been applied to the
smaller, fretted instrument for only around the last 200
years. Since the word literally means "sweet
tune"—and both instruments do, indeed, produce
mellifluous tones—perhaps some old mountaineer
plucked the instrument title out of the Good Book and
attached it to the Appalachian melody-maker.
The large hammered music box is a forerunner of the piano,
but the pounding pieces that strike its strings are held in
the player's hands instead of being built into the
instrument's body and mechanically operated. Many countries
throughout Europe and Asia have traditional versions of the
hammered dulcimer—and a great many styles of music
are played on them—but the basic form of ancient
"sweet-tuner" is nothing more than a trapezoidal sound box
that has several groups (or "courses") of strings passing
over a support (or side bridge) at one end of the
instrument, across an off-center bridge, and over another
support to the other end. (Some dulcimers have two central
bridges . . . the second being used to carry an extra set
of bass strings.) The midbridge is a distinctive trait of
the hammered dulcimer, and distinguishes the instrument
from its ancestor, the psaltery.
As you can see in the accompanying diagram, a homemade
hammered dulcimer can be built from scraps of dimensional
lumber and plywood. You will probably need to purchase
tuning pegs (old piano pegs will work fine), a tuning
wrench (a hardware store "tapping chuck" should serve the
purpose), and a supply of No. 7 or No. 8 music wire (it's
available from most music stores, hobby shops, and mail
order music supply houses). In addition, you can expect to
get superior tone from the finished instrument if you build
its top—the sounding board—from a good piece of
spruce.
The dulcimer's top and back are simply secured with a good
wood glue, then nailed in place. (Be sure to avoid putting
any of the metal fasteners where the tuning pegs will later
be installed.) Each string is wrapped three or four times
around a tuning peg, laid over the offcenter bridge, looped
around a hitch pin on the opposite side, and then run back
to another peg on the original side. Every wire
then forms two strings, and each pair will give one note on
the right side of the main bridge and another (a fifth
higher) on the left side of the divider.
One standard tuning for a 12-course hammered
dulcimer-running from low notes at the bottom of the
instrument to high ones at the top—is G#, A, B, C#
(this is the CM just above middle C), D, E, F#, G, A, B, C,
and D on the left side of the bridge . . . and C#, D, E,
F#, G, A, B, C, D, E, F, and G on the right side of the
bridge. You'll have to adjust the new instrument several
times, over a period of days, before it'll "settle down"
and stay in tune.
For a more complete version of these instructions, send
$3.75 (postpaid) to Mugwumps, Dept. TMEN, 1600 Billman
Lane, Silver Spring, Maryland 20902 for "The Hammer
Dulcimer Compendium". The package will include some playing
information and history as well as building plans. (
Mugwumps magazine, by the way, is devoted to the
subject of hammered dulcimers and other vintage musical
instruments, comes out six times annually, and costs $12
for a year's subscription. A sample issue can be ordered
for $2.00. )
A prominent hammered dulcimerist, Sam Rizzetta, has written
yet another construction guide, "Making a Hammered
Dulcimer" . . . and a publication called "Hammer Dulcimer
History and Playing". Both documents are
available—free for the asking—from Public
Inquiry Mail, Smithsonian Institution, Dept. TMEN,
Washington, D.C. 20560.
Many companies offer kits for building hammered dulcimers,
too. Ray Mooers, of the Dusty Strings Dulcimer Company,
dropped in one day recently and showed me his firm's two
basic models of sweettuners (one single-bridged and the
other double-bridged). Both are available as kits that need
only sanding, finishing, and stringing. Prices start at
$165 . . . and the package comes complete with an owner's
guidebook. Additional options can be ordered at extra cost.
For example, a basic kit with a spruce soundboard costs
$195. You can write for a free catalog to Dusty Strings
Dulcimer Company, Dept. TMEN, 1848 Northeast Ravenna
Boulevard, Seattle, Washington 98105.
(Other sources for kits, books, records, and accessories
were mentioned in my columns in issues 55, 63, and 67.
)
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