Build a Bicycle Trailer
(Page 3 of 4)
July/August 1981
By Bill Sullivan
After that's done, the unbraced 13-112" X 23" plywood end section can be secured—with glue and wood screws—to the rear of the frame . . . followed by the two plywood sides (fasten the already installed end piece to their 1 X 1 X 11-3/4" molding supports). The seat back (which is at the front of the cart) can be added next, but—before gluing it in place-drill a pair of 1" holes, just halfway down the 20" dimension and 5-1/2 inches in from the edge, to allow you to install a simple web-and-buckle safety belt later on. Finally, install the seat support just far enough from the back so that the seat itself will rest on it and on the 1 X 1 X 3" brace.
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The wheel axles will, of course, need to be supported on their outer ends as well as at the points where they enter the sides of the cart. To allow for this, cut two 3" X 5" pieces of 114" plywood, and form an axle slot in each of them. When positioning these plates, turn the cart upside down and drop a yardstick into the grooves cut in the plywood carriage sides. The slots in the in-place axle plates must fit the yardstick exactly. Mark the correct positions on the outer 1 X 2 frame pieces .. . then remove those frame members, glue and screw the axle holders down, and reinstall the assemblies.
A SLICE OF TONGUE
The tongue support on the bike cart is simply a 3" X 26" piece of sturdy 314" exterior plywood. (As mentioned before, if your cart's wheels are smaller than 26", you'll need to increase the height of the tongue support. Check it against that of the bicycle seat before drilling and bolting on the arms. With the wheels in place, the cart should ride level when the tongue is attached just below the bike's seat.) After cutting the plywood to size, be sure that its end just fits between the two central frame pieces (you may have to file the support a little). Once it's snug against the seat back, clamp the plywood in position . . . drill two 1/4" holes through all three boards . . . unclamp the assembly . . . put glue on all surfaces that will make contact . . . and bolt the upright in place. (You may also want to run a few screws through the seat back and into the 3/4" edge of the plywood to assure a good bond.)
While the support assembly dries, cut two pieces of plywood to form the tongue that runs from the cart to the bicycle, and shape them as illustrated . . . with slight angles in the ends (to fit flush against the cart's back) and tapers on the tips that will be secured to the bike (to allow for freedom of movement under the bicycle seat). Drill a 1/4" hole, centered and 314 inch from the front end of each tongue piece, where the connecting unit will bolt on.
THE FINISHING TOUCHES
I painted my cart—to make it more attractive and visible and to preserve the wood—with two coats of an exterior oilbased gloss enamel. Remember, if you do the same, that bright yellow and orange are quite visible at night . . . but that a darker-hued cart should be trimmed with reflective tape as a safety precaution. [EDITOR'S NOTE: We recommend that inexpensive plastic reflectors be mounted on the cart regardless of its color.]
