Build a Bicycle Trailer
(Page 2 of 4)
July/August 1981
By Bill Sullivan
FRAMED!
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Once the wheels are on hand (and the plans modified, if necessary, to suit them), you can begin construction of the frame ... which consists of eight lengths of 1 X 2 (half are 34-1/2" long, while the rest measure 31 " apiece), notched and bolted together as illustrated. The grooves themselves are all 1/2" deep and 3/4" wide, and are positioned as follows:
Each of the four 31 " lengths of 1 X 2 will have a notch spaced 1/2 inch, at its outer edge, from each of the board's two ends.
Two of the 34-1/2" lengths will have a notch 1/2 inch — on edge — from one end, and a second notch starting 4 inches from the other end.
The two remaining 34-1/2" lengths will have six notches apiece. The outer ones will, again, start 1/2 inch from the boards' ends ... while the other four should be spaced as depicted in the "Top View of Frame" diagram. Make sure that the outside edges of the two 31 " struts that will later support the plywood bed (the two that will be just inside the wheels) are exactly 23 inches apart when the platform is loosely assembled, and that the pair of central braces are 3/4 inch apart . . . allowing space for the 3/4" plywood upright tongue support to slip between them and be bolted in place.
When everything has been fitted and checked (chisel excess material out of the notches as necessary), pound the frame together with a mallet to obtain a snug fit. Then drill 1/4" holes, vertically, through the eight joints that surround the wheel openings, and secure those unions with 3" carriage bolts. (The four central joints will—later—be held in place by the plywood bottom and thus need no additional fastening at this stage.)
BOX IT IN!
The bed of my bike cart is made of sturdy 1/4" plywood, cut to the dimensions shown in the accompanying "Cutting Details" drawing. Take special care, when shaping the side pieces, that the axle slots are positioned to allow clearance for the tire on both sides, are as wide as the diameter of axle used, and are 1-1/2" deep with rounded ends as shown (use a file to achieve a smooth, curved surface).
The bottom of the bed should be the first component fitted to the frame and must be laid down flush with the side and back support boards. Remove the four carriage bolts that the plywood would otherwise cover . . . glue the base of the bed in place . . . secure it with several nails . . . turn the frame upside down . . . drill through the bolt holes in the frame's bottom, and replace the threaded fasteners to join the bed to the base.
Now, cut 1 X 1 molding to the dimensions specified in "Cutting Details". Glue and nail the appropriate blocks to the edges of the plywood sides, seat support, and back section, as illustrated ... then add a few 3/4" wood screws (through predrilled holes) to bind the joints tightly.
